Hublot

Carlo Crocco, who had worked in his family's Binda watch business, founded Hublot in 1980 with an idea that sounds trivial and was not: he paired a gold case with a natural rubber strap. Nobody had done it. The material cost almost nothing and the case cost a great deal, and the combination broke a rule the industry took seriously.

The name is French for porthole, describing the case shape with its exposed bezel screws.

The brand was moderately successful for two decades and then transformed under Jean-Claude Biver, who arrived as CEO in 2004 having already revived Blancpain. Biver launched the Big Bang in 2005 and articulated the art of fusion — combining materials that do not conventionally belong together: gold with ceramic, carbon fibre with rubber, titanium with tantalum.

The material development that followed was genuine. Hublot produced Magic Gold, an 18-carat gold alloy infused with ceramic and hard enough to resist scratching, and coloured ceramics previously thought impossible to sinter at high temperature, particularly a vivid red.

Hublot has been aggressive in sponsorship — FIFA World Cups, football leagues, Ferrari — which has made it divisive among traditionalists. It is also, commercially, one of the most successful watch launches of the modern era. LVMH acquired the company in 2008.

Hublot holds 6 models, from £6,075 to £21,150. Half cost less than £14,100, and a quarter less than £11,288. 4 of 6 are automatic. 4 are stocked by more than one retailer, giving 10 offers in total. Prices are checked nightly against the retailers’ own feeds.

1980

Carlo Crocco pairs a gold case with a rubber strap.

2004

Jean-Claude Biver becomes CEO.

2005

The Big Bang launches the art of fusion.

2008

Acquired by LVMH.

2011

Magic Gold, a scratch-resistant gold alloy, is developed.