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Hublot Big Bang King Gold Diamonds 39mm Automatic Mens Watch
Ref. 665.OX.1180.RX.1204
The Spirit of Big Bang range exists as a deliberate departure from the original Big Bang's round case — the tonneau shape is not a stylistic whim but a structural argument, reorganising the watch's proportions around a form that sits differently on the wrist and reads as its own object. This particular version is built in Hublot's proprietary King Gold, an 18-carat rose alloy enriched with platinum to resist the surface fading that ordinary rose gold develops with wear; the warmth of the colour is noticeably deeper than standard rose. At 39mm the tonneau case is genuinely wearable across different wrist sizes, and the black rubber strap — the "Art of Fusion" signature that pairs precious metal with utilitarian materials — keeps the overall weight in check while the King Gold deployant clasp holds the same alloy as the case rather than stepping down. The bezel carries 50 brilliant-cut diamonds, totalling approximately one carat, held in place by six H-shaped titanium screws that are distinctly Hublot in their industrial confidence. Underneath, the HUB1710 is built on the Zenith Elite 670 platform, a movement known for its reliability, and delivers a 50-hour reserve — enough that a weekend off the wrist does not mean resetting it on Monday morning.
- Reference
- 665.OX.1180.RX.1204
- Brand
- Hublot
- Collection
- Spirit of Big Bang
- Case size
- 39mm
- Case material
- Rose gold
- Case shape
- Tonneau
- Dial
- Black
- Crystal
- Sapphire
- Bezel
- Fixed
- Movement
- Automatic
- Calibre
- HUB1710
- Functions
- Date
- Water resistance
- 100m
- Bracelet / strap
- Rubber strap
- Strap colour
- Black
- Clasp
- Deployant clasp
- Lume
- Luminous
- Condition
- Ex-display
- Retailer
- Mappin & Webb
Additional specifications
- Power reserve
- 50 hours
Learn more about Hublot
Carlo Crocco, who had worked in his family's Binda watch business, founded Hublot in 1980 with an idea that sounds trivial and was not: he paired a gold case with a natural rubber strap. Nobody had done it. The material cost almost nothing and the case cost a great deal, and the combination broke a rule the industry took seriously.
The name is French for porthole, describing the case shape with its exposed bezel screws.
The brand was moderately successful for two decades and then transformed under Jean-Claude Biver, who arrived as CEO in 2004 having already revived Blancpain. Biver launched the Big Bang in 2005 and articulated the art of fusion — combining materials that do not conventionally belong together: gold with ceramic, carbon fibre with rubber, titanium with tantalum.
The material development that followed was genuine. Hublot produced Magic Gold, an 18-carat gold alloy infused with ceramic and hard enough to resist scratching, and coloured ceramics previously thought impossible to sinter at high temperature, particularly a vivid red.
Hublot has been aggressive in sponsorship — FIFA World Cups, football leagues, Ferrari — which has made it divisive among traditionalists. It is also, commercially, one of the most successful watch launches of the modern era. LVMH acquired the company in 2008.
- 1980
- Carlo Crocco pairs a gold case with a rubber strap.
- 2004
- Jean-Claude Biver becomes CEO.
- 2005
- The Big Bang launches the art of fusion.
- 2008
- Acquired by LVMH.
- 2011
- Magic Gold, a scratch-resistant gold alloy, is developed.
Also in 5 collections
This watch appears in Automatic Watches (1,736), Pre-Owned, Ex-Display & Vintage Watches (344), Solid Gold Watches (150), Tonneau & Cushion Watches (134) and Diamond Watches (112).
Best of 2 retailers
What the specifications mean
A mechanical watch for everyday wear.
Strengths
- 100m water resistance covers swimming and watersports
- 39mm suits most wrists
- Sapphire crystal, which resists scratching
- Luminous hands and markers for low light
Hublot Big Bang King Gold alternatives
Watches from other brands at a similar price, style and size, so you can see what else your budget can buy.
| Specification | 665.OX.1180.RX.1204 | 116520 | 81010-32-3081-1CX |
|---|---|---|---|
| Price | £19,800 | £20,255 | £20,450 |
| Case size | 39mm | 40mm | 42mm |
| Water resistance | 100m | 100m | 100m |
| Movement | Automatic | Automatic | Automatic |
| Strap | Rubber strap | Stainless steel bracelet | Ceramic bracelet |
| Power reserve | 50 hours | 72 hours | 54 hours |
| This watch | Closely matched |
|
Your new watch
Frequently asked questions, and things you should know about this watch
Can I swim with it?
Yes. At 100m it is rated for swimming and snorkelling, though not for diving.
Water resistance explainedWill the glass scratch?
Unlikely. Sapphire is second only to diamond in hardness and shrugs off everyday marking.
Sapphire, mineral and acrylic comparedDoes it need a battery?
No. It is automatic — the motion of your wrist winds it, and there is no cell to replace.
Quartz, automatic and solar comparedHow long does it run for when it's not worn?
About 50 hours fully wound — enough to survive a night off the wrist, but not a full weekend.
Is it a men's or women's watch?
Listed as men's, though at 39mm it sits in the range that suits anyone.
Cheapest place to buy
Both Mappin & Webb and Goldsmiths list it at £19,800, so choose on delivery and warranty rather than price.
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