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Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar 40mm Mens Watch White
Ref. 1-90-02-42-32-71
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Stepping up in Glashütte Original's range
The PanoMaticLunar is one of Glashütte Original's most recognisable designs, built around an asymmetric layout that places the subsidiary dials off-axis rather than at the conventional positions. The date and small seconds sit to one side, the moonphase to the other, and the effect is a dial that reads as composed rather than crowded — a considered arrangement rather than a compromise to fit the complications in. The silver dial is built up through around forty individual steps, with applied indexes and blued hands over sub-registers finished in a fine ribbed pattern that catches light differently from the main surface. The moonphase disc is made in-house: the moons are milled to a domed profile and then polished with a diamond-tipped tool, which gives them a depth that printed or stamped versions do not achieve. On the wrist, the calibre 90-02 is visible through the sapphire caseback — three-quarter plate, swan-neck spring, skeletonised rotor in Glashütte stripe finish, blued screws throughout. These are not decorative choices; they are the standard finishing practices of the Saxon school, and at 40mm the case wears the complications without feeling weighted by them.
- Reference
- 1-90-02-42-32-71
- Brand
- Glashütte Original
- Case size
- 40mm
- Case thickness
- 12.70mm
- Case material
- Two-tone
- Case shape
- Round
- Dial
- Black
- Crystal
- Sapphire
- Bezel
- Unidirectional rotating
- Movement
- Solar
- Calibre
- 90-02
- Functions
- Chronograph, GMT, Day-date, Small seconds, Moonphase, Power reserve indicator, Tachymeter, Skeleton dial, Stopwatch, Countdown timer, Alarm, Backlight, World time, Perpetual calendar, Solar powered, Radio controlled, Bluetooth, Step counter, Heart rate, GPS, Compass, Thermometer, Altimeter, Tide graph, Dual display
- Bracelet / strap
- Mesh bracelet
- Strap colour
- Bronze
- Clasp
- Butterfly clasp
- Lume
- Luminous
- Retailer
- Goldsmiths
Learn more about Glashütte Original
Glashütte Original is the direct corporate descendant of the East German state watchmaking industry. When the Soviet administration expropriated Glashütte's private manufacturers after the Second World War — A. Lange & Söhne among them — it consolidated them into a single enterprise, VEB Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe, which produced watches for the Eastern Bloc for four decades.
After reunification the enterprise was privatised, and in 1994 it took the name Glashütte Original. It therefore inherits both the archives and the tooling of the pre-war houses and the industrial capacity built under the GDR.
That inheritance shows in vertical integration unusual even at the high end. The company makes its own movements, and its own dials, through the Pforzheim dial manufactory it acquired in 2006 — a capability most houses buy in.
The house signatures are German: three-quarter plates, duplex swan-neck fine adjustment, hand-engraved balance cocks, and skeletonised rotors in double-G form. The Panorama Date, a large date display where both discs sit on one plane so no dividing line interrupts the numerals, is its most distinctive complication and a deliberate improvement on the standard big-date module.
The Senator, Sixties, and Seventies collections cover classical and retro-industrial ground respectively. Swatch Group acquired the company in 2000.
- 1951
- The Glashütte manufacturers are consolidated into VEB Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe.
- 1994
- The privatised company takes the Glashütte Original name.
- 2000
- Acquired by the Swatch Group.
- 2006
- The Pforzheim dial manufactory is brought in-house.
Also in 6 collections
This watch appears in Back in Stock (3,734), Chronograph Watches (953), Skeleton Watches (251), GMT Watches (204), Solar & Kinetic Watches (173) and Mesh Bracelet Watches (139).
Best of 2 retailers
What the specifications mean
Strengths
- 40mm suits most wrists
- Sapphire crystal, which resists scratching
- Luminous hands and markers for low light
- Second time zone for travelling
- Sits in the lower half of Glashütte Original's range as we list it
Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar alternatives
Watches from other brands at a similar price, style and size, so you can see what else your budget can buy.
| Specification | 1-90-02-42-32-71 | H5705 |
|---|---|---|
| Price | £11,000 | £8,400 |
| Case size | 40mm | 38mm |
| Water resistance | — | 200m |
| Movement | Solar | Solar |
| Strap | Mesh bracelet | Mesh bracelet |
| Power reserve | — | 70 hours |
| This watch |
|
Your new watch
Frequently asked questions, and things you should know about this watch
Will the glass scratch?
Unlikely. Sapphire is second only to diamond in hardness and shrugs off everyday marking.
Sapphire, mineral and acrylic comparedDoes it need a battery?
No. It charges from light, and the cell behind that is designed to last a decade or more.
Quartz, automatic and solar comparedIs it a men's or women's watch?
Listed as men's, though at 40mm it sits in the range that suits anyone.
Cheapest place to buy
Both Mappin & Webb and Goldsmiths list it at £11,000, so choose on delivery and warranty rather than price.
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