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Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar 40mm Mens Watch Grey
Ref. 1-90-02-43-32-62
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Stepping up in Glashütte Original's range
The PanoMaticLunar lineage reaches back to the early 2000s, when Glashütte Original used the golden ratio to resolve the asymmetric dial layout that defines the Pano collection. Time and small seconds sit left of centre, the moonphase occupies two o'clock, and the oversized Panorama Date lands at four — a configuration that looks considered rather than accidental, because the proportions were calculated to be so. At 40mm across and 47mm lug to lug, the watch sits well on a medium wrist, helped by lugs that curve downward and pull the case close. The 12.7mm depth is honest for what the movement carries — the calibre 90-02 houses a three-quarter plate in Glashütte stripe, a hand-engraved balance bridge, flame-blued screws, a swan-neck fine adjustment, and a skeletonised rotor weighted in 21-carat gold — and the watch still passes under a formal cuff without resistance. The grey dial and unmarked baton indices are deliberately clean: there is no luminous paint here, and the hands read by reflected light alone, which suits the register this watch occupies. The alligator nubuck strap is textured with a felt-like surface unusual enough to notice, and the butterfly deployant protects the leather from the daily crease a pin buckle would impose. Sizing is by pin holes in the strap rather than ratchet adjustment, which is the correct choice for something this fine.
- Reference
- 1-90-02-43-32-62
- Brand
- Glashütte Original
- Collection
- Pano
- Case size
- 40mm
- Case thickness
- 12.7mm
- Lug width
- 20mm
- Case material
- Stainless steel
- Case shape
- Round
- Dial
- Grey
- Crystal
- Sapphire
- Movement
- Automatic
- Calibre
- 90-02
- Functions
- Date, Small seconds, Moonphase
- Water resistance
- 50m
- Bracelet / strap
- Leather strap
- Strap colour
- Grey
- Clasp
- Deployant clasp
- Lume
- Luminous
- Retailer
- Mappin & Webb
Additional specifications
- Lug-to-lug
- 47mm
- Warranty
- 2 years
Learn more about Glashütte Original
Glashütte Original is the direct corporate descendant of the East German state watchmaking industry. When the Soviet administration expropriated Glashütte's private manufacturers after the Second World War — A. Lange & Söhne among them — it consolidated them into a single enterprise, VEB Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe, which produced watches for the Eastern Bloc for four decades.
After reunification the enterprise was privatised, and in 1994 it took the name Glashütte Original. It therefore inherits both the archives and the tooling of the pre-war houses and the industrial capacity built under the GDR.
That inheritance shows in vertical integration unusual even at the high end. The company makes its own movements, and its own dials, through the Pforzheim dial manufactory it acquired in 2006 — a capability most houses buy in.
The house signatures are German: three-quarter plates, duplex swan-neck fine adjustment, hand-engraved balance cocks, and skeletonised rotors in double-G form. The Panorama Date, a large date display where both discs sit on one plane so no dividing line interrupts the numerals, is its most distinctive complication and a deliberate improvement on the standard big-date module.
The Senator, Sixties, and Seventies collections cover classical and retro-industrial ground respectively. Swatch Group acquired the company in 2000.
- 1951
- The Glashütte manufacturers are consolidated into VEB Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe.
- 1994
- The privatised company takes the Glashütte Original name.
- 2000
- Acquired by the Swatch Group.
- 2006
- The Pforzheim dial manufactory is brought in-house.
Also in 6 collections
This watch appears in Back in Stock (3,734), Stainless Steel Watches (2,581), Automatic Watches (1,570), Leather Strap Watches (860), Dress Watches (475) and Grey Dial Watches (197).
Manufacturer’s guarantee
Best of 2 retailers
What the specifications mean
A mechanical watch for everyday wear.
Strengths
- 40mm suits most wrists
- 47mm lug-to-lug keeps the 40mm case wearable
- Sapphire crystal, which resists scratching
- Luminous hands and markers for low light
- Sits in the lower half of Glashütte Original's range as we list it
Worth knowing
- 50m suits rain and handwashing, not swimming
Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar alternatives
Watches from other brands at a similar price, style and size, so you can see what else your budget can buy.
| Specification | 1-90-02-43-32-62 | 102930 | L27938732 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Price | £10,100 | £10,400 | £11,100 |
| Case size | 40mm | 41mm | 40mm |
| Water resistance | 50m | 50m | 30m |
| Movement | Automatic | Automatic | Automatic |
| Strap | Leather strap | Stainless steel bracelet | Leather strap |
| Power reserve | — | 42 hours | 72 hours |
| This watch | Closely matched |
|
Your new watch
Frequently asked questions, and things you should know about this watch
Can I swim with it?
Showering yes, swimming no. 50m covers splashes and brief immersion, but a swimming stroke generates well above the pressure that figure describes.
Water resistance explainedWill the glass scratch?
Unlikely. Sapphire is second only to diamond in hardness and shrugs off everyday marking.
Sapphire, mineral and acrylic comparedDoes it need a battery?
No. It is automatic — the motion of your wrist winds it, and there is no cell to replace.
Quartz, automatic and solar comparedWhat size strap does it take?
20mm. Any strap of that width will fit, and on most modern watches quick-release bars make the swap a two-minute job with no tools.
Will it fit my wrist?
Lug-to-lug is 47mm, which suits wrists from roughly 16cm (6¼ inches) upward.
Lug-to-lug decides fit more than case diameter does.
How to size a watch to your wristIs it a men's or women's watch?
Listed as men's, though at 40mm it sits in the range that suits anyone.
Cheapest place to buy
Both Goldsmiths and Mappin & Webb list it at £10,100, so choose on delivery and warranty rather than price.
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