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Rolex Air-King
Ref. 5500/0
The Air-King name dates to the 1940s, when Rolex supplied watches to RAF pilots and their ground crews, and the reference 5500 carried that lineage for more than thirty years — one of the longest uninterrupted production runs in the company's history. During that time it was fitted with either the calibre 1520 or 1530, both movements built to be maintained indefinitely rather than replaced, which is why so many of these watches are still running without apology decades after they left the factory. At 34mm the case sits closer to the wrist than most modern watches allow, and the lug-to-lug of 39.2mm means it disappears under a cuff rather than fighting with one. The blue dial and smooth fixed bezel keep the face uncluttered — no date, no complications, nothing to distract from the hands — and the acrylic crystal gives the dial a slightly warm, domed read that flat sapphire does not.
- Reference
- 5500/0
- Brand
- Rolex
- Case size
- 34mm
- Case thickness
- 11.9mm
- Lug width
- 19mm
- Case material
- Stainless steel
- Case shape
- Round
- Dial
- Blue
- Crystal
- Acrylic
- Movement
- Automatic
- Bracelet / strap
- Stainless steel bracelet
- Strap colour
- Silver
- Clasp
- Folding clasp
- Lume
- Luminous
- Retailer
- Goldsmiths
Additional specifications
- Lug-to-lug
- 39.2mm
Learn more about Rolex
Hans Wilsdorf founded Wilsdorf & Davis in London in 1905 with his brother-in-law Alfred Davis, importing Swiss movements and casing them in England. He registered the name Rolex in 1908 — short, pronounceable in any language, and easy to fit on a dial.
Wilsdorf's conviction was that the wristwatch, then regarded as a woman's ornament and hopelessly fragile, could be made accurate and durable. He proved the first half in 1910 by obtaining the first chronometer certification for a wristwatch, and the second in 1926 with the Oyster case, sealed by a screw-down crown and caseback. Mercedes Gleitze swam the Channel wearing one in 1927, and Wilsdorf bought the front page of the Daily Mail to say so — arguably the first modern watch marketing campaign.
The Perpetual rotor followed in 1931, giving automatic winding in a form the whole industry eventually copied. The company relocated to Geneva during the First World War to escape British wartime duties.
The professional models arrived in a compressed burst in the 1950s: Submariner, Explorer, GMT-Master, Milgauss, and later the Daytona. Each was built for a specific job — diving, exploration, aviation, laboratory work, racing — and each became a design template.
Wilsdorf left his shares to a private foundation on his death, so Rolex answers to no shareholders. It remains the largest producer of certified chronometers in Switzerland by a wide margin.
- 1905
- Hans Wilsdorf founds Wilsdorf & Davis in London.
- 1908
- The Rolex name is registered.
- 1926
- The Oyster case introduces genuine water resistance.
- 1931
- The Perpetual rotor brings modern automatic winding.
- 1953
- The Submariner and Explorer launch.
- 1963
- The Cosmograph Daytona arrives.
Also in 5 collections
This watch appears in Stainless Steel Watches (2,516), Automatic Watches (1,407), Watches Under 37mm (1,313), Back in Stock (1,193) and Blue Dial Watches (698).
Manufacturer’s guarantee
What the specifications mean
A mechanical watch for everyday wear.
Strengths
- 34mm wears small and slips under any cuff
- 39.2mm lug-to-lug keeps the 34mm case wearable
- Luminous hands and markers for low light
Worth knowing
- Acrylic crystal marks easily, though it polishes out
Compare alternatives
Watches from other brands at a similar price, style and size, so you can see what else your budget can buy.
| Specification | 5500/0 | L81260972 | H5704 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Price | £6,150 | £5,550 | £6,500 |
| Case size | 34mm | 34mm | 33mm |
| Water resistance | — | 30m | 200m |
| Movement | Automatic | Automatic | Automatic |
| Strap | Stainless steel bracelet | Leather strap | Ceramic bracelet |
| Power reserve | — | 72 hours | — |
| This watch | Closely matched | Closely matched |
Your new watch
Frequently asked questions, and things you should know about this watch
Will the glass scratch?
Yes, but it polishes out. Acrylic marks easily and a scratch can be buffed away at home, which is why vintage-style watches still use it.
Does it need a battery?
No. It is automatic — the motion of your wrist winds it, and there is no cell to replace.
What size strap does it take?
19mm. Any strap of that width will fit, and on most modern watches quick-release bars make the swap a two-minute job with no tools.
Will it fit my wrist?
Lug-to-lug is 39.2mm, which suits wrists from roughly 15cm (6 inches) upward.
Lug-to-lug decides fit more than case diameter does.
Is it a men's or women's watch?
Listed as unisex, and at this size it suits any wrist that takes the dimensions.
Cheapest place to buy
Goldsmiths is the only UK retailer we track stocking this reference new, at £6,150. There is nothing to compare it against today.
Who are Goldsmiths?
Goldsmiths has been selling watches in Britain since 1778 and is part of the Watches of Switzerland Group, which is listed on the London Stock Exchange. They are an authorised dealer, so a watch comes with the manufacturer’s own warranty.
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