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Chanel Première Gourmette Chain Watch
Ref. H7018
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Stepping up in the same dial colour
The Première was Chanel's first watch, launched in 1987, and its octagonal case has always carried a specific reference: the stopper of the No. 5 bottle, which is itself drawn from the geometry of the Place Vendôme. That double source is unusual for a watch case, and it gives the form a coherence that reads as considered rather than decorative. This version replaces the original leather-interlaced chain bracelet with a gourmette curb link — closer to jewellery in its construction, sitting flush against the wrist in the manner of a formal bracelet rather than lying across it like a conventional strap. The black lacquer dial carries no indices at all, which is a deliberate decision on a case this slim: at 7.6mm the watch disappears under a cuff, and a dial stripped to its essentials is the right one for that role. The crown is set with an onyx cabochon, the single detail that rewards close attention without announcing itself.
- Reference
- H7018
- Brand
- Chanel
- Collection
- Première
- Case size
- 20mm
- Case thickness
- 7.6mm
- Case material
- Stainless steel
- Case shape
- Octagonal
- Dial
- Black
- Crystal
- Sapphire
- Movement
- Quartz
- Water resistance
- 30m
- Bracelet / strap
- Stainless steel bracelet
- Strap colour
- Silver
- Clasp
- Folding clasp
- Lume
- Luminous
- Retailer
- Mappin & Webb
Additional specifications
- Origin
- Swiss made
- Warranty
- 2 years
Learn more about Chanel
Gabrielle Chanel opened her first shop in 1910 and spent the following decades removing things from women's clothing — corsetry, ornament, the assumption that formality required discomfort. The jersey suit, the little black dress and No. 5 came from that.
The watches are made in-house, not licensed. Chanel opened its own watch manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1993 and has since taken stakes in the movement maker Kenissi, giving it access to genuinely serious mechanics.
Two designs define the output. The Première of 1987 took its octagonal case from the stopper of the No. 5 bottle and its chain-and-leather bracelet from the quilted handbag. The J12 of 2000 was made almost entirely from high-tech ceramic at a time when almost nobody was doing it, and it changed what a fashion house's watch could be taken seriously as.
More recently the Monsieur and the Code Coco have carried in-house calibres, including a jumping-hour movement developed by Chanel itself.
The company remains privately owned by the Wertheimer family.
- 1910
- Gabrielle Chanel opens her first shop in Paris.
- 1987
- The Première introduces the octagonal No. 5 case.
- 1993
- Opens its own watch manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds.
- 2000
- The J12 arrives in high-tech ceramic.
- 2016
- The Monsieur brings a Chanel in-house calibre.
Also in 5 collections
This watch appears in the Chanel Première range (8), Back in Stock (4,361), Stainless Steel Watches (2,892), Watches Under 37mm (1,536) and Women's Watches (1,491).
What the specifications mean
Strengths
- 20mm wears small and slips under any cuff
- Sapphire crystal, which resists scratching
- Luminous hands and markers for low light
- Sits in the lower half of Chanel's range as we list it
Worth knowing
- 30m means keeping it away from water
Your new watch
Frequently asked questions, and things you should know about this watch
Can I swim with it?
No. At 30m it will survive rain and handwashing, but not submersion of any kind.
Water resistance explainedWill the glass scratch?
Unlikely. Sapphire is second only to diamond in hardness and shrugs off everyday marking.
Sapphire, mineral and acrylic comparedDoes it need a battery?
Yes. It is quartz, so expect a battery change every two to three years at a jeweller.
Quartz, automatic and solar comparedIs it a men's or women's watch?
Listed as women's.
Cheapest place to buy
Mappin & Webb is the only UK retailer we track stocking this reference, so there is nothing to compare it against today.
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