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Doxa Sub 200T Sea Emerald 39mm Mens Watch Green
Ref. 804.10.131S.10
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Stepping up in Doxa's range
The Sub 200T traces its roots to 1967, when Doxa introduced the original SUB and, with it, the no-decompression table built directly into the bezel — a working tool that set the watch apart from decorative dive watches of the period. The 200T is a considered reworking of that lineage: by reorganising space within the cushion case, Doxa has brought the diameter down to 39mm with a lug-to-lug of just 41.5mm, which is genuinely compact for a dive watch rated to 200 metres. The result sits closer to the wrist than the genre usually allows, and wears without the heft that puts many divers off daily use. The Sea Emerald dial is a sunray green with gold-tone hands and baton markers — a combination that reads warmly in daylight and remains readable underwater, where the Super-LumiNova coating holds its charge well against the dark background. The beads-of-rice bracelet is the right period touch on a watch with this heritage, and the folding clasp includes a ratcheting wetsuit extension that adjusts without tools, which matters when you are actually using it in the water.
- Reference
- 804.10.131S.10
- Brand
- Doxa
- Collection
- SUB 200T
- Case size
- 39mm
- Case thickness
- 10.7mm
- Lug width
- 18mm
- Case material
- Stainless steel
- Case shape
- Round
- Dial
- Green
- Crystal
- Sapphire
- Bezel
- Unidirectional rotating
- Movement
- Automatic
- Calibre
- SW200
- Functions
- Date
- Water resistance
- 200m
- Bracelet / strap
- Stainless steel bracelet
- Strap colour
- Silver
- Clasp
- Folding clasp
- Lume
- Super-LumiNova
- Retailer
- Mappin & Webb
Additional specifications
- Lug-to-lug
- 41.5mm
- Power reserve
- 38 hours
- Origin
- Swiss made
Learn more about Doxa
Doxa was founded by Georges Ducommun in Le Locle in 1889, and spent its early decades on pocket watches and, notably, dashboard clocks for the emerging car industry — supplying Bugatti among others.
Its lasting contribution came much later. In 1967 Doxa released the SUB 300, developed in consultation with professional divers, and it introduced several things now taken for granted. The dial was orange, chosen after testing which colour remained visible longest as depth filtered out light. The bezel carried a US Navy no-decompression scale rather than simple minute markers, letting a diver read safe bottom time directly. The beads-of-rice bracelet included an expansion section to fit over a wetsuit.
Jacques Cousteau's organisation distributed the watches, and US Divers sold them in America. The SUB became genuine professional equipment rather than a dive-styled dress watch, and it appears throughout Clive Cussler's novels on the wrist of Dirk Pitt.
Doxa struggled through the quartz era and was largely dormant before being revived by the Jenny family, who reissued the SUB faithfully from 2002 onward.
The modern range remains almost entirely dive watches, with the same cushion case, the same bezel scale, and dial colours named for their depth-rating heritage — Professional orange, Sharkhunter black, Searambler silver, Caribbean blue.
- 1889
- Georges Ducommun founds Doxa in Le Locle.
- 1908
- Supplies dashboard clocks to early car manufacturers.
- 1967
- The SUB 300 debuts with an orange dial and decompression bezel.
- 2002
- The SUB is reissued under new ownership.
Also in 6 collections
This watch appears in Stainless Steel Watches (3,308), Back in Stock (2,703), Automatic Watches (1,651), Sports Watches (816), Dive Watches (578) and Green Dial Watches (439).
What the specifications mean
A mechanical watch built to be worn hard and got wet.
Strengths
- 200m water resistance, rated for actual diving
- 39mm suits most wrists
- 41.5mm lug-to-lug keeps the 39mm case wearable
- Sapphire crystal, which resists scratching
- Luminous hands and markers for low light
Worth knowing
- 38-hour reserve means winding it after a day off
Doxa Sub 200T Sea Emerald alternatives
Watches from other brands at a similar price, style and size, so you can see what else your budget can buy.
| Specification | 804.10.131S.10 | ZO9218 | HBC007J1 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Price | £1,490 | £1,599 | £1,100 |
| Case size | 39mm | 39mm | 39.5mm |
| Water resistance | 200m | 200m | 200m |
| Movement | Automatic | Automatic | Automatic |
| Strap | Stainless steel bracelet | Stainless steel bracelet | Leather strap |
| Power reserve | 38 hours | 44 hours | 72 hours |
| This watch | Closely matched |
|
Your new watch
Frequently asked questions, and things you should know about this watch
Can I swim with it?
Yes. At 200m it is rated for swimming, snorkelling and recreational diving.
Will the glass scratch?
Unlikely. Sapphire is second only to diamond in hardness and shrugs off everyday marking.
Does it need a battery?
No. It is automatic — the motion of your wrist winds it, and there is no cell to replace.
How long does it run for when it's not worn?
About 38 hours fully wound — so it will usually stop if you leave it off overnight.
What size strap does it take?
18mm. Any strap of that width will fit, and on most modern watches quick-release bars make the swap a two-minute job with no tools.
Will it fit my wrist?
Lug-to-lug is 41.5mm, which suits wrists from roughly 15cm (6 inches) upward.
Lug-to-lug decides fit more than case diameter does.
Is it a men's or women's watch?
Listed as men's, though at 39mm it sits in the range that suits anyone.
Cheapest place to buy
Mappin & Webb is the only UK retailer we track stocking this reference new, at £1,490. There is nothing to compare it against today.
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