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Glashütte Original PanoMatic Luna 1-90-12-03-12-02
Ref. 1-90-12-03-12-02
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Stepping up in Glashütte Original's range
The PanoMatic Luna is where Glashütte Original's asymmetric dial architecture meets complications that reward evening wear: the moonphase and small seconds sit off-axis in a layout that has been the house's signature for this family since the Nineties, and the blue mother-of-pearl shifts character entirely depending on the angle and the light it is under. The diamond-set bezel and diamond hour markers are not afterthoughts here — they are the point of this reference, positioning it as dress jewellery that happens to carry a properly made movement. The calibre 90-12 is built in-house at Glashütte, which means the moonphase display is regulated to the same standards as the timekeeping itself, rather than grafted on from a supplier. At 39.4mm the case is neither oversized for a dressed occasion nor so restrained that the dial complexity gets lost.
- Reference
- 1-90-12-03-12-02
- Brand
- Glashütte Original
- Case size
- 40mm
- Case material
- Stainless steel
- Case shape
- Round
- Dial
- Mother-of-pearl
- Crystal
- Sapphire
- Movement
- Automatic
- Calibre
- 90-12
- Functions
- Date, Small seconds, Moonphase
- Water resistance
- 30m
- Bracelet / strap
- Leather strap
- Clasp
- Buckle
- Condition
- Pre-owned
- Retailer
- Goldsmiths
Additional specifications
- Gem set
- Yes
Learn more about Glashütte Original
Glashütte Original is the direct corporate descendant of the East German state watchmaking industry. When the Soviet administration expropriated Glashütte's private manufacturers after the Second World War — A. Lange & Söhne among them — it consolidated them into a single enterprise, VEB Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe, which produced watches for the Eastern Bloc for four decades.
After reunification the enterprise was privatised, and in 1994 it took the name Glashütte Original. It therefore inherits both the archives and the tooling of the pre-war houses and the industrial capacity built under the GDR.
That inheritance shows in vertical integration unusual even at the high end. The company makes its own movements, and its own dials, through the Pforzheim dial manufactory it acquired in 2006 — a capability most houses buy in.
The house signatures are German: three-quarter plates, duplex swan-neck fine adjustment, hand-engraved balance cocks, and skeletonised rotors in double-G form. The Panorama Date, a large date display where both discs sit on one plane so no dividing line interrupts the numerals, is its most distinctive complication and a deliberate improvement on the standard big-date module.
The Senator, Sixties, and Seventies collections cover classical and retro-industrial ground respectively. Swatch Group acquired the company in 2000.
- 1951
- The Glashütte manufacturers are consolidated into VEB Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe.
- 1994
- The privatised company takes the Glashütte Original name.
- 2000
- Acquired by the Swatch Group.
- 2006
- The Pforzheim dial manufactory is brought in-house.
Also in 6 collections
This watch appears in Stainless Steel Watches (2,953), Women's Watches (1,532), Automatic Watches (1,324), Leather Strap Watches (941), Dress Watches (468) and Pre-Owned, Ex-Display & Vintage Watches (100).
2-year Goldsmiths warranty
What the specifications mean
A mechanical watch for everyday wear.
Strengths
- 40mm suits most wrists
- Sapphire crystal, which resists scratching
- Sits in the lower half of Glashütte Original's range as we list it
Worth knowing
- 30m means keeping it away from water
Compare alternatives
Watches from other brands at a similar price, style and size, so you can see what else your budget can buy.
| Specification | 1-90-12-03-12-02 | L27938732 | 49555-11-131-11A |
|---|---|---|---|
| Price | £11,995 | £11,100 | £8,700 |
| Case size | 40mm | 40mm | 40mm |
| Water resistance | 30m | 30m | 30m |
| Movement | Automatic | Automatic | Automatic |
| Strap | Leather strap | Leather strap | Stainless steel bracelet |
| Power reserve | — | 72 hours | 46 hours |
| This watch | Closely matched |
|
Your new watch
Frequently asked questions, and things you should know about this watch
Can I swim with it?
No. At 30m it will survive rain and handwashing, but not submersion of any kind.
Will the glass scratch?
Unlikely. Sapphire is second only to diamond in hardness and shrugs off everyday marking.
Does it need a battery?
No. It is automatic — the motion of your wrist winds it, and there is no cell to replace.
Is it a men's or women's watch?
Listed as women's, though at 40mm it sits in the range that suits anyone.
Cheapest place to buy
Goldsmiths at £11,995, pre-owned. No UK retailer we track lists this reference new.
Is this available new?
Not from the UK retailers we track. This reference is listed as pre-owned only, at £11,995 from Goldsmiths. Goldsmiths test every pre-owned watch for authenticity, timekeeping and water resistance, and warrant it for 2 years — the same term they give on a new watch.
Who are Goldsmiths?
Goldsmiths has been selling watches in Britain since 1778 and is part of the Watches of Switzerland Group, which is listed on the London Stock Exchange. They are an authorised dealer, so a watch comes with the manufacturer’s own warranty.
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