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Glashütte Original PanoMatic Luna 1-90-12-03-12-02
Ref. 1-90-12-03-12-02
The PanoMatic Luna is where Glashütte Original's asymmetric dial architecture meets complications that reward evening wear: the moonphase and small seconds sit off-axis in a layout that has been the house's signature for this family since the Nineties, and the blue mother-of-pearl shifts character entirely depending on the angle and the light it is under. The diamond-set bezel and diamond hour markers are not afterthoughts here — they are the point of this reference, positioning it as dress jewellery that happens to carry a properly made movement. The calibre 90-12 is built in-house at Glashütte, which means the moonphase display is regulated to the same standards as the timekeeping itself, rather than grafted on from a supplier. At 39.4mm the case is neither oversized for a dressed occasion nor so restrained that the dial complexity gets lost.
- Reference
- 1-90-12-03-12-02
- Brand
- Glashütte Original
- Case size
- 40mm
- Case material
- Stainless steel
- Case shape
- Round
- Dial
- Mother-of-pearl
- Crystal
- Sapphire
- Movement
- Automatic
- Calibre
- 90-12
- Functions
- Date, Small seconds, Moonphase
- Water resistance
- 30m
- Bracelet / strap
- Leather strap
- Clasp
- Buckle
- Condition
- Pre-owned
- Retailer
- Mappin & Webb
Additional specifications
- Gem set
- Yes
Learn more about Glashütte Original
Glashütte Original is the direct corporate descendant of the East German state watchmaking industry. When the Soviet administration expropriated Glashütte's private manufacturers after the Second World War — A. Lange & Söhne among them — it consolidated them into a single enterprise, VEB Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe, which produced watches for the Eastern Bloc for four decades.
After reunification the enterprise was privatised, and in 1994 it took the name Glashütte Original. It therefore inherits both the archives and the tooling of the pre-war houses and the industrial capacity built under the GDR.
That inheritance shows in vertical integration unusual even at the high end. The company makes its own movements, and its own dials, through the Pforzheim dial manufactory it acquired in 2006 — a capability most houses buy in.
The house signatures are German: three-quarter plates, duplex swan-neck fine adjustment, hand-engraved balance cocks, and skeletonised rotors in double-G form. The Panorama Date, a large date display where both discs sit on one plane so no dividing line interrupts the numerals, is its most distinctive complication and a deliberate improvement on the standard big-date module.
The Senator, Sixties, and Seventies collections cover classical and retro-industrial ground respectively. Swatch Group acquired the company in 2000.
- 1951
- The Glashütte manufacturers are consolidated into VEB Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe.
- 1994
- The privatised company takes the Glashütte Original name.
- 2000
- Acquired by the Swatch Group.
- 2006
- The Pforzheim dial manufactory is brought in-house.
Also in 6 collections
This watch appears in Back in Stock (4,847), Stainless Steel Watches (3,197), Automatic Watches (1,736), Women's Watches (1,622), Leather Strap Watches (1,049) and Dress Watches (546).
Best of 2 retailers
What the specifications mean
A mechanical watch for everyday wear.
Strengths
- 40mm suits most wrists
- Sapphire crystal, which resists scratching
Worth knowing
- 30m means keeping it away from water
Glashütte Original PanoMatic Luna 1-90-12-03-12-02 alternatives
Watches from other brands at a similar price, style and size, so you can see what else your budget can buy.
| Specification | 1-90-12-03-12-02 | Q4128420 | 103368 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Price | £11,995 | £11,350 | £9,995 |
| Case size | 40mm | 40mm | 40mm |
| Water resistance | 30m | 50m | 30m |
| Movement | Automatic | Automatic | Automatic |
| Strap | Leather strap | Leather strap | Ceramic bracelet |
| Power reserve | — | 70 hours | 60 hours |
| This watch |
|
|
Your new watch
Frequently asked questions, and things you should know about this watch
Can I swim with it?
No. At 30m it will survive rain and handwashing, but not submersion of any kind.
Water resistance explainedWill the glass scratch?
Unlikely. Sapphire is second only to diamond in hardness and shrugs off everyday marking.
Sapphire, mineral and acrylic comparedDoes it need a battery?
No. It is automatic — the motion of your wrist winds it, and there is no cell to replace.
Quartz, automatic and solar comparedIs it a men's or women's watch?
Listed as women's, though at 40mm it sits in the range that suits anyone.
Cheapest place to buy
Both Mappin & Webb and Goldsmiths list it at £11,995, so choose on delivery and warranty rather than price.
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