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Grand Seiko Elegance Collection 3 Days Power Reserve GMT 39.5mm Stainless Steel
Ref. SBGM221
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Stepping up in Grand Seiko's range
The SBGM221 sits within a line of Grand Seiko GMT references that stretches back through the SBGM003 and SBGM021, each generation refining what a dressed GMT should be. This one carries the 9S66, assembled at the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi — the manufacture's dedicated atelier for its finest mechanical work — and runs as a true flyer GMT, meaning the local hour hand jumps independently in one-hour steps without stopping the movement. That matters to anyone who actually crosses time zones rather than simply owning a watch with a second timezone hand. The Zaratsu mirror-polishing runs across the entire steel case, and on a watch with no luminous material at all, that finish is doing real work: the diamond-cut facets of the markers and hands catch and redirect light in the way that a conventional applied index simply does not. The heat-blued GMT hand reads immediately against the ivory dial in any light the case does not already handle. At 39.5mm with lugs curving down over 46.9mm, it presses close to the wrist and disappears under a shirt cuff — a proportion that suits the crocodile strap and the three-fold deployant clasp without any of the bulk that GMT complications so often carry with them.
- Reference
- SBGM221
- Brand
- Grand Seiko
- Collection
- Elegance CollectionCase Size: 39
- Case size
- 39.5mm
- Case thickness
- 13.7mm
- Lug width
- 19mm
- Case material
- Stainless steel
- Case shape
- Round
- Dial
- Ivory
- Crystal
- Sapphire
- Movement
- Automatic
- Calibre
- 9S66
- Functions
- GMT, Date
- Water resistance
- 30m
- Bracelet / strap
- Leather strap
- Strap colour
- Brown
- Clasp
- Three-fold clasp
- Lume
- Luminous
- Condition
- Pre-owned
- Retailer
- Mappin & Webb
Additional specifications
- Lug-to-lug
- 46.9mm
- Power reserve
- 72 hours
Learn more about Grand Seiko
Grand Seiko began in 1960 as Seiko's attempt to build a watch to the highest standard in the world, judged against Swiss chronometer criteria rather than Japanese ones. The first model met the Bureaux Officiels standard, and the ambition was explicit: not a good Japanese watch, but a better watch than the Swiss were making.
The 1967 Grammar of Design, laid down by Taro Tanaka, still governs the aesthetic. Flat surfaces and sharp facets rather than curves; hands and markers cut to catch light in defined planes; every surface either mirror-polished or perfectly flat, with no in-between. The polishing is done by hand on tin plates — Zaratsu — which produces distortion-free reflections and cannot be replicated by machine.
The precision case was made at observatory trials in the 1960s, where Grand Seiko movements placed among the leaders in Geneva and Neuchâtel before the competitions ended.
The house's distinctive technology is Spring Drive, introduced in 1999 after nearly three decades of development. A conventional mainspring drives the watch, but the escapement is replaced by an electromagnetic brake regulated by a quartz oscillator: mechanical power, quartz accuracy, and a seconds hand that sweeps without ticking at all.
Grand Seiko was separated into a standalone brand internationally in 2017, with dials frequently drawn from Japanese landscape — the Snowflake among the best known.
- 1960
- The first Grand Seiko is built to Swiss chronometer standards.
- 1967
- Taro Tanaka codifies the Grammar of Design.
- 1968
- The 61GS Hi-Beat reaches 36,000 vibrations per hour.
- 1999
- Spring Drive combines mechanical power with quartz regulation.
- 2017
- Established as an independent brand worldwide.
Also in 6 collections
This watch appears in Stainless Steel Watches (2,846), Automatic Watches (1,468), Leather Strap Watches (938), Dress Watches (459), Pre-Owned, Ex-Display & Vintage Watches (271) and GMT Watches (210).
What the specifications mean
A mechanical watch for everyday wear.
Strengths
- 39.5mm suits most wrists
- Sapphire crystal, which resists scratching
- 72-hour reserve survives a weekend off the wrist
- Luminous hands and markers for low light
- Second time zone for travelling
Worth knowing
- 30m means keeping it away from water
Compare alternatives
Watches from other brands at a similar price, style and size, so you can see what else your budget can buy.
| Specification | SBGM221 | 8020.0.11.9419 | AIRCO-M2-WH-B |
|---|---|---|---|
| Price | £3,250 | £3,450 | £2,925 |
| Case size | 39.5mm | 37mm | 40mm |
| Water resistance | 30m | 30m | 100m |
| Movement | Automatic | Automatic | Automatic |
| Strap | Leather strap | Stainless steel bracelet | Stainless steel bracelet |
| Power reserve | 72 hours | — | — |
| This watch |
|
|
Your new watch
Frequently asked questions, and things you should know about this watch
Can I swim with it?
No. At 30m it will survive rain and handwashing, but not submersion of any kind.
Will the glass scratch?
Unlikely. Sapphire is second only to diamond in hardness and shrugs off everyday marking.
Does it need a battery?
No. It is automatic — the motion of your wrist winds it, and there is no cell to replace.
How long does it run for when it's not worn?
About 72 hours fully wound — enough to sit off the wrist over a weekend and still be running.
What size strap does it take?
19mm. Any strap of that width will fit, and on most modern watches quick-release bars make the swap a two-minute job with no tools.
Will it fit my wrist?
Lug-to-lug is 46.9mm, which suits wrists from roughly 16cm (6¼ inches) upward.
Lug-to-lug decides fit more than case diameter does.
Is it a men's or women's watch?
Listed as men's, though at 39.5mm it sits in the range that suits anyone.
Cheapest place to buy
Mappin & Webb at £3,250, pre-owned. No UK retailer we track lists this reference new.
Is this available new?
Not from the UK retailers we track. This reference is listed as pre-owned only, at £3,250 from Mappin & Webb. A pre-owned watch has been worn, and is normally sold under the retailer’s own warranty rather than the manufacturer’s.
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