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Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar 39mm Stainless Steel
Ref. Q1308470
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Stepping up in Jaeger-LeCoultre's range
The Master Ultra Thin perpetual calendar is among the more demanding problems in watchmaking: fit a mechanism that tracks months, leap years and moonphase — one that will not need correcting until 2100 — inside a case slim enough to disappear beneath a shirt cuff. At 9.2mm, Jaeger-LeCoultre has answered it convincingly. Most perpetual calendars read thick at the wrist; this one sits flush, the 45.7mm lug-to-lug keeping it close to the wrist even on a narrower arm. The calibre 868/1 is the reason it can be done. Forty-six jewels, a 28,800vph beat rate, and a perpetual cam system engineered tightly enough that the whole assembly fits without sacrificing the proportions. Every watch leaves the manufacture only after the 1,000 Hours Control — roughly six weeks of testing against chronometry, water resistance and mechanical reliability, a standard that exceeds COSC certification by a considerable margin. On a black dial, the sunray brushing catches oblique light in a way that flat lacquer does not, keeping the surface from reading as a void despite the depth of colour. The dauphine hands and rhodium-plated appliqués are polished rather than brushed, so the indices hold light while the dial recedes. The thin-padded alligator strap is not incidental to any of this — it was cut specifically to preserve the flat line the case thickness earns.
- Reference
- Q1308470
- Brand
- Jaeger-LeCoultre
- Collection
- Master Ultra Thin
- Case size
- 39mm
- Case thickness
- 9.2mm
- Lug width
- 21mm
- Case material
- Stainless steel
- Case shape
- Round
- Dial
- Black
- Crystal
- Sapphire
- Movement
- Automatic
- Calibre
- 868/1
- Functions
- Date, Moonphase
- Water resistance
- 50m
- Bracelet / strap
- Leather strap
- Strap colour
- Black
- Clasp
- Deployant clasp
- Lume
- Luminous
- Condition
- Pre-owned
- Retailer
- Mappin & Webb
Additional specifications
- Lug-to-lug
- 45.7mm
- Power reserve
- 38 hours
Learn more about Jaeger-LeCoultre
Antoine LeCoultre opened a workshop in Le Sentier in 1833 and set about solving a problem nobody else had: precise measurement. His Millionomètre of 1844 was the first instrument capable of measuring to a micron, and it let the Vallée de Joux move from skilled approximation to genuine precision.
The house became the movement supplier to the industry. Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Cartier, and Audemars Piguet all built watches on LeCoultre ébauches, and the manufacture has produced well over a thousand distinct calibres — an output no other house approaches. The partnership with the Parisian retailer Edmond Jaeger, formalised in the company name in 1937, gave it the Jaeger-LeCoultre it still carries.
Two products define it in the public mind. The Reverso of 1931 was designed so British Army officers in India could flip the case and protect the crystal during polo; the reversible case became one of the few genuinely original watch designs of the century. The Atmos clock, developed from 1928, runs on atmospheric temperature variation and needs no winding at all.
The Duoplan and the calibre 101 — still the smallest mechanical movement in series production, introduced in 1929 — sit alongside the gyrotourbillons and minute repeaters that keep the manufacture at the technical front.
Richemont has owned the house since 2000.
- 1833
- Antoine LeCoultre founds his workshop in Le Sentier.
- 1844
- The Millionomètre measures to the micron for the first time.
- 1929
- Calibre 101, the smallest mechanical movement, is introduced.
- 1931
- The Reverso launches with its flip case.
- 1937
- The Jaeger-LeCoultre name is formalised.
Also in 6 collections
This watch appears in Back in Stock (5,241), Stainless Steel Watches (3,391), Automatic Watches (1,792), Leather Strap Watches (1,111), Dress Watches (569) and Pre-Owned, Ex-Display & Vintage Watches (356).
What the specifications mean
A slim watch on leather, made for wearing with a shirt.
Strengths
- 39mm suits most wrists
- 45.7mm lug-to-lug keeps the 39mm case wearable
- Sapphire crystal, which resists scratching
- Luminous hands and markers for low light
Worth knowing
- 50m suits rain and handwashing, not swimming
- 38-hour reserve means winding it after a day off
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual alternatives
Watches from other brands at a similar price, style and size, so you can see what else your budget can buy.
| Specification | Q1308470 | LONGITUDE-WG-R-S | 102714 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Price | £15,950 | £17,325 | £17,325 |
| Case size | 39mm | 40mm | 40mm |
| Water resistance | 50m | 50m | 30m |
| Movement | Automatic | Automatic | Automatic |
| Strap | Leather strap | Leather strap | Leather strap |
| Power reserve | 38 hours | — | 65 hours |
| This watch | Closely matched |
|
Your new watch
Frequently asked questions, and things you should know about this watch
Can I swim with it?
Showering yes, swimming no. 50m covers splashes and brief immersion, but a swimming stroke generates well above the pressure that figure describes.
Water resistance explainedWill the glass scratch?
Unlikely. Sapphire is second only to diamond in hardness and shrugs off everyday marking.
Sapphire, mineral and acrylic comparedDoes it need a battery?
No. It is automatic — the motion of your wrist winds it, and there is no cell to replace.
Quartz, automatic and solar comparedHow long does it run for when it's not worn?
About 38 hours fully wound — so it will usually stop if you leave it off overnight.
What size strap does it take?
21mm. Any strap of that width will fit, and on most modern watches quick-release bars make the swap a two-minute job with no tools.
Will it fit my wrist?
Lug-to-lug is 45.7mm, which suits wrists from roughly 16cm (6¼ inches) upward.
Lug-to-lug decides fit more than case diameter does.
How to size a watch to your wristIs it a men's or women's watch?
Listed as men's, though at 39mm it sits in the range that suits anyone.
Cheapest place to buy
Mappin & Webb is the only UK retailer we track stocking this reference, so there is nothing to compare it against today.
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