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Speake-Marin Academic Black Tie 38mm Mens Watch Black
Ref. 413817040
The Academic Black Tie is built around Speake-Marin's new-generation Piccadilly case in grade 5 titanium, measuring 38mm across and 10.5mm thick. Both front and back sapphire crystals carry an anti-reflective coating. The deep polished black lacquer dial is laid out with applied Roman numerals filled with matte black Super-LumiNova, and the small-seconds sub-dial sits at the unusual position of 1:30. Hands are rhodium-plated in a heart and spade profile. The in-house SMA03 automatic runs at 4Hz via a fully integrated micro-rotor, with a 52-hour power reserve indicated on the dial. A black calfskin strap closes with a titanium folding clasp.
- Reference
- 413817040
- Brand
- Speake-Marin
- Case size
- 38mm
- Case thickness
- 10.5mm
- Case material
- Titanium
- Case shape
- Round
- Dial
- Black
- Crystal
- Sapphire
- Movement
- Automatic
- Calibre
- SMA03
- Functions
- Small seconds
- Water resistance
- 30m
- Bracelet / strap
- Leather strap
- Strap colour
- Black
- Clasp
- Folding clasp
- Lume
- Super-LumiNova
- Retailer
- Mappin & Webb
Additional specifications
- Power reserve
- 52 hours
- Strap
- Interchangeable
Learn more about Speake-Marin
Peter Speake-Marin trained at Hackney Technical College in London, spent years restoring antique watches on Piccadilly and later worked at Renaud et Papi, the complications workshop behind much of the industry's most difficult work. He founded his own brand in Switzerland in 2002.
The house style was established early and has stayed: the Piccadilly case with its distinctive stepped bezel, the topping tool motif taken from a watchmaker's own bench, and heart-shaped bridges visible through the back.
Christelle Rosnoblet bought the company in 2012 and built a movement workshop in the Neuchâtel region, moving it from assembling supplied calibres towards developing and finishing its own.
The output is deliberately small and deliberately difficult — tourbillons, minute repeaters, the Vertical Double Tourbillon, and an Art Series with hand-sculpted dials. These are watches made in dozens rather than thousands.
Peter Speake-Marin himself has since moved on to other projects; the brand he named continues in Geneva.
- 1985
- Peter Speake-Marin qualifies as a watchmaker in London.
- 2002
- Founds the brand in Switzerland.
- 2003
- The Piccadilly case establishes the house style.
- 2012
- Christelle Rosnoblet acquires the company.
- 2015
- In-house movement development begins in Neuchâtel.
Also in 5 collections
This watch appears in Back in Stock (4,015), Automatic Watches (1,251), Leather Strap Watches (842), Dress Watches (424) and Titanium Watches (126).
What the specifications mean
A slim watch on leather, made for wearing with a shirt.
Strengths
- 38mm suits most wrists
- Sapphire crystal, which resists scratching
- Luminous hands and markers for low light
Worth knowing
- 30m means keeping it away from water
Price history
This watch is currently at its highest recorded price. It was £9,800 on 14 September. Prices are checked every day, and we record any changes.
Speake-Marin Academic Black Tie alternatives
Watches from other brands at a similar price, style and size, so you can see what else your budget can buy.
| Specification | 413817040 | H7189 | 49524D11A171-CK6A |
|---|---|---|---|
| Price | £16,339 | £16,600 | £16,200 |
| Case size | 38mm | 38mm | 36mm |
| Water resistance | 30m | 50m | 30m |
| Movement | Automatic | Automatic | Automatic |
| Strap | Leather strap | Ceramic bracelet | Leather strap |
| Power reserve | 52 hours | 70 hours | 46 hours |
| This watch |
|
|
Your new watch
Frequently asked questions, and things you should know about this watch
Can I swim with it?
No. At 30m it will survive rain and handwashing, but not submersion of any kind.
Water resistance explainedWill the glass scratch?
Unlikely. Sapphire is second only to diamond in hardness and shrugs off everyday marking.
Sapphire, mineral and acrylic comparedDoes it need a battery?
No. It is automatic — the motion of your wrist winds it, and there is no cell to replace.
Quartz, automatic and solar comparedHow long does it run for when it's not worn?
About 52 hours fully wound — enough to survive a night off the wrist, but not a full weekend.
Is it a men's or women's watch?
Listed as men's, though at 38mm it sits in the range that suits anyone.
Cheapest place to buy
Mappin & Webb is the only UK retailer we track stocking this reference, so there is nothing to compare it against today.
Has the price changed recently?
It's currently at its highest recorded price. It's ranged between £9,800 and £16,339, today it's £16,339.
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