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Chanel J12 29mm Ceramic
Ref. H3243
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Stepping up in Chanel's range
The J12 arrived in 2000 as Chanel's argument that ceramic could anchor a serious watch rather than merely decorate one, and the white version that followed sharpened that argument into something overtly jewellery-adjacent. This 29mm reference takes it further still: forty pink sapphires set into the bezel, totalling approximately one carat, sit against the high-tech ceramic with the kind of contrast that only works when the underlying material is genuinely good — and Chanel's ceramic polishes to a depth that makes the stones read as placed rather than applied. Eight diamond hour markers on the mother-of-pearl dial complete the logic rather than adding to it. At 29mm the proportions are deliberate and compact, and 11mm of thickness means it sits flush rather than proud on the wrist. The bracelet is the same ceramic as the case, and the hidden folding clasp keeps the profile unbroken from above — which, given how considered the rest of the piece is, matters.
- Reference
- H3243
- Brand
- Chanel
- Case size
- 29mm
- Case thickness
- 11mm
- Case material
- Ceramic
- Case shape
- Round
- Dial
- Mother-of-pearl
- Crystal
- Sapphire
- Bezel
- Unidirectional rotating
- Movement
- Quartz
- Water resistance
- 50m
- Bracelet / strap
- Ceramic bracelet
- Strap colour
- White
- Clasp
- Folding clasp
- Lume
- Luminous
- Condition
- Pre-owned
- Retailer
- Mappin & Webb
Learn more about Chanel
Gabrielle Chanel opened her first shop in 1910 and spent the following decades removing things from women's clothing — corsetry, ornament, the assumption that formality required discomfort. The jersey suit, the little black dress and No. 5 came from that.
The watches are made in-house, not licensed. Chanel opened its own watch manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1993 and has since taken stakes in the movement maker Kenissi, giving it access to genuinely serious mechanics.
Two designs define the output. The Première of 1987 took its octagonal case from the stopper of the No. 5 bottle and its chain-and-leather bracelet from the quilted handbag. The J12 of 2000 was made almost entirely from high-tech ceramic at a time when almost nobody was doing it, and it changed what a fashion house's watch could be taken seriously as.
More recently the Monsieur and the Code Coco have carried in-house calibres, including a jumping-hour movement developed by Chanel itself.
The company remains privately owned by the Wertheimer family.
- 1910
- Gabrielle Chanel opens her first shop in Paris.
- 1987
- The Première introduces the octagonal No. 5 case.
- 1993
- Opens its own watch manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds.
- 2000
- The J12 arrives in high-tech ceramic.
- 2016
- The Monsieur brings a Chanel in-house calibre.
Also in 4 collections
This watch appears in Watches Under 37mm (1,694), Women's Watches (1,631), Pre-Owned, Ex-Display & Vintage Watches (211) and Ceramic Watches (107).
What the specifications mean
Strengths
- 29mm wears small and slips under any cuff
- Sapphire crystal, which resists scratching
- Luminous hands and markers for low light
- Sits in the lower half of Chanel's range as we list it
Worth knowing
- 50m suits rain and handwashing, not swimming
Compare alternatives
Watches from other brands at a similar price, style and size, so you can see what else your budget can buy.
| Specification | H3243 | L52005707 | 278590-6015 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Price | £5,050 | £4,650 | £4,740 |
| Case size | 29mm | 29mm | 30mm |
| Water resistance | 50m | 30m | 30m |
| Movement | Quartz | Quartz | Quartz |
| Strap | Ceramic bracelet | Stainless steel bracelet | Leather strap |
| This watch |
|
|
Your new watch
Frequently asked questions, and things you should know about this watch
Can I swim with it?
Showering yes, swimming no. 50m covers splashes and brief immersion, but a swimming stroke generates well above the pressure that figure describes.
Will the glass scratch?
Unlikely. Sapphire is second only to diamond in hardness and shrugs off everyday marking.
Does it need a battery?
Yes. It is quartz, so expect a battery change every two to three years at a jeweller.
Is it a men's or women's watch?
Listed as women's.
Cheapest place to buy
Mappin & Webb at £5,050, pre-owned. No UK retailer we track lists this reference new.
Is this available new?
Not from the UK retailers we track. This reference is listed as pre-owned only, at £5,050 from Mappin & Webb. A pre-owned watch has been worn, and is normally sold under the retailer’s own warranty rather than the manufacturer’s.
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