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Chanel Premiere Gourmette Chain Watch
Ref. H7021
The Première was Chanel's entry into watchmaking in 1987, and it arrived with a shape drawn from two of the house's most recognisable objects: the octagonal stopper of the N°5 bottle and the geometry of Place Vendôme. That origin is still visible in the case here, and it explains why this watch reads as jewellery first — 52 brilliant-cut diamonds set into the bezel, an onyx cabochon on the crown, a Gourmette curb chain that sits on the wrist the way a bracelet does. At 19.7mm across and 15.2mm lug to lug, it is genuinely small, intended to sit within a narrow wrist rather than across it. The black lacquer dial carries no hour markers, which on a watch this size is a decision rather than an oversight — legibility is secondary to the overall read, and the polished hands against the dark ground are enough. The chain bracelet is integral to the design rather than attached to it, which keeps the proportions clean through the wrist.
- Reference
- H7021
- Brand
- Chanel
- Collection
- Première
- Case size
- 19.7mm
- Case thickness
- 7.5mm
- Case material
- Stainless steel
- Case shape
- Octagonal
- Dial
- Black
- Crystal
- Sapphire
- Movement
- Quartz
- Functions
- Date
- Water resistance
- 30m
- Bracelet / strap
- Stainless steel bracelet
- Strap colour
- Silver
- Clasp
- Folding clasp
- Lume
- Luminous
- Condition
- Ex-display
- Retailer
- Mappin & Webb
Learn more about Chanel
Gabrielle Chanel opened her first shop in 1910 and spent the following decades removing things from women's clothing — corsetry, ornament, the assumption that formality required discomfort. The jersey suit, the little black dress and No. 5 came from that.
The watches are made in-house, not licensed. Chanel opened its own watch manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1993 and has since taken stakes in the movement maker Kenissi, giving it access to genuinely serious mechanics.
Two designs define the output. The Première of 1987 took its octagonal case from the stopper of the No. 5 bottle and its chain-and-leather bracelet from the quilted handbag. The J12 of 2000 was made almost entirely from high-tech ceramic at a time when almost nobody was doing it, and it changed what a fashion house's watch could be taken seriously as.
More recently the Monsieur and the Code Coco have carried in-house calibres, including a jumping-hour movement developed by Chanel itself.
The company remains privately owned by the Wertheimer family.
- 1910
- Gabrielle Chanel opens her first shop in Paris.
- 1987
- The Première introduces the octagonal No. 5 case.
- 1993
- Opens its own watch manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds.
- 2000
- The J12 arrives in high-tech ceramic.
- 2016
- The Monsieur brings a Chanel in-house calibre.
Also in 6 collections
This watch appears in the Chanel Première range (8), Back in Stock (4,417), Stainless Steel Watches (2,943), Watches Under 37mm (1,558), Women's Watches (1,512) and Pre-Owned, Ex-Display & Vintage Watches (320).
Best of 2 retailers
What the specifications mean
Strengths
- 19.7mm wears small and slips under any cuff
- Sapphire crystal, which resists scratching
- Luminous hands and markers for low light
Worth knowing
- 30m means keeping it away from water
Your new watch
Frequently asked questions, and things you should know about this watch
Can I swim with it?
No. At 30m it will survive rain and handwashing, but not submersion of any kind.
Water resistance explainedWill the glass scratch?
Unlikely. Sapphire is second only to diamond in hardness and shrugs off everyday marking.
Sapphire, mineral and acrylic comparedDoes it need a battery?
Yes. It is quartz, so expect a battery change every two to three years at a jeweller.
Quartz, automatic and solar comparedIs it a men's or women's watch?
Listed as women's.
Cheapest place to buy
Both Mappin & Webb and Goldsmiths list it at £4,995, so choose on delivery and warranty rather than price.
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