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Doxa Sub 200 T. Graph Professional 43mm Mens Watch - Limited Edition
Ref. 805.10.351.10
Sits in Doxa’s upper tier here — more premium than three quarters of the Doxa watches we list, which start at £1,150.
Price range £1,150 to £5,215 across 36 Doxa watches in stock.The original T.Graph appeared in 1969 as one of the first purpose-built dive chronographs, pairing Doxa's professional orange dial with a stopwatch function at a time when almost nobody was doing both seriously. This limited steel reissue does something unusual: the Jenny family, who have owned Doxa for two decades, sourced genuine New Old Stock Valjoux 7734 calibres — movements that have been sitting in preservation for over thirty years — stripped and rebuilt each one before fitting it to a new case. The result is a contemporary watch running an authentic piece of 1960s Swiss ebauche, hand-wound, at 18,000 vibrations per hour with a 45-hour reserve. On the wrist the oval cushion case reads as vintage without being costume: the semi-matte orange dial carries a small seconds at nine and a 30-minute chronograph counter at three, which is exactly how the 1969 original was laid out. The beige Super-LumiNova applied to the hands and markers is deliberately aged in tone, labelled Light Old Radium, which keeps the dial coherent rather than splitting it between modern blue-white lume and period colouring. The Beads of Rice bracelet closes with a folding clasp that includes a ratcheting wetsuit extension — useful in practice, and correct to the original specification.
- Reference
- 805.10.351.10
- Brand
- Doxa
- Collection
- SUB 200 T
- Case size
- 43mm
- Case thickness
- 15.15mm
- Lug width
- 20mm
- Case material
- Stainless steel
- Case shape
- Round
- Dial
- Orange
- Crystal
- Sapphire
- Bezel
- Unidirectional rotating
- Movement
- Manual
- Calibre
- Valjoux 7734
- Functions
- Chronograph, Date, Small seconds
- Water resistance
- 200m
- Bracelet / strap
- Stainless steel bracelet
- Strap colour
- Silver
- Clasp
- Folding clasp
- Lume
- Super-LumiNova
- Retailer
- Mappin & Webb
Additional specifications
- Lug-to-lug
- 45.50mm
- Power reserve
- 45 hours
Learn more about Doxa
Doxa was founded by Georges Ducommun in Le Locle in 1889, and spent its early decades on pocket watches and, notably, dashboard clocks for the emerging car industry — supplying Bugatti among others.
Its lasting contribution came much later. In 1967 Doxa released the SUB 300, developed in consultation with professional divers, and it introduced several things now taken for granted. The dial was orange, chosen after testing which colour remained visible longest as depth filtered out light. The bezel carried a US Navy no-decompression scale rather than simple minute markers, letting a diver read safe bottom time directly. The beads-of-rice bracelet included an expansion section to fit over a wetsuit.
Jacques Cousteau's organisation distributed the watches, and US Divers sold them in America. The SUB became genuine professional equipment rather than a dive-styled dress watch, and it appears throughout Clive Cussler's novels on the wrist of Dirk Pitt.
Doxa struggled through the quartz era and was largely dormant before being revived by the Jenny family, who reissued the SUB faithfully from 2002 onward.
The modern range remains almost entirely dive watches, with the same cushion case, the same bezel scale, and dial colours named for their depth-rating heritage — Professional orange, Sharkhunter black, Searambler silver, Caribbean blue.
- 1889
- Georges Ducommun founds Doxa in Le Locle.
- 1908
- Supplies dashboard clocks to early car manufacturers.
- 1967
- The SUB 300 debuts with an orange dial and decompression bezel.
- 2002
- The SUB is reissued under new ownership.
Also in 6 collections
This watch appears in Stainless Steel Watches (3,308), Back in Stock (2,703), Chronograph Watches (1,354), Sports Watches (816), Dive Watches (578) and Limited Edition Watches (202).
What the specifications mean
A watch built to be worn hard and got wet.
Strengths
- 200m water resistance, rated for actual diving
- 45.5mm lug-to-lug keeps the 43mm case wearable
- Sapphire crystal, which resists scratching
- Luminous hands and markers for low light
- One of Doxa's more premium watches
Worth knowing
- 43mm sits at the larger end
- 15.15mm thick, so it will not disappear under a cuff
Doxa Sub 200 T. Graph alternatives
Watches from other brands at a similar price, style and size, so you can see what else your budget can buy.
| Specification | 805.10.351.10 | L29604782 |
|---|---|---|
| Price | £3,675 | £3,350 |
| Case size | 43mm | 41mm |
| Water resistance | 200m | 30m |
| Movement | Manual | Manual |
| Strap | Stainless steel bracelet | Leather strap |
| Power reserve | 45 hours | 68 hours |
| This watch |
|
Your new watch
Frequently asked questions, and things you should know about this watch
Can I swim with it?
Yes. At 200m it is rated for swimming, snorkelling and recreational diving.
Will the glass scratch?
Unlikely. Sapphire is second only to diamond in hardness and shrugs off everyday marking.
Does it need a battery?
No. It is hand-wound, so it needs winding every day or two but never a battery.
How long does it run for when it's not worn?
About 45 hours fully wound — enough to survive a night off the wrist, but not a full weekend.
What size strap does it take?
20mm. Any strap of that width will fit, and on most modern watches quick-release bars make the swap a two-minute job with no tools.
Will it fit my wrist?
Lug-to-lug is 45.50mm, which suits wrists from roughly 16cm (6¼ inches) upward.
Lug-to-lug decides fit more than case diameter does.
Is it a men's or women's watch?
Listed as men's.
Cheapest place to buy
Mappin & Webb is the only UK retailer we track stocking this reference new, at £3,675. There is nothing to compare it against today.
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