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Doxa Sub 250T GMT 40mm Mens Watch Orange Stainless Steel
Ref. 855.10.351.10
Sits in Doxa’s upper tier here — more premium than three quarters of the Doxa watches we list, which start at £1,150.
Price range £1,150 to £5,215 across 36 Doxa watches in stock.The original Sub was among the first dive watches to carry a decompression table on the bezel, developed in the 1960s alongside American dive pioneer Rene Bussoz as a working instrument for recreational divers rather than a piece of equipment aspiring to military use. The orange dial was its signature from the start — high-visibility underwater, immediately recognisable above it. This GMT variant revives a complication the line carried in earlier decades, adding a skeletonised second-hour hand that tracks a second time zone without obscuring the dial beneath it. The cushion case keeps 40mm feeling closer to 38 on the wrist, and 250m water resistance at that profile means it crosses into serious dive territory without the bulk that rating usually demands. The SW330 is a Sellita movement with a 50-hour reserve and solid service credentials — nothing exotic, but dependable in exactly the conditions the watch was designed for. The beads-of-rice bracelet suits it well; it has the right weight for the case and the diving suit extension in the folding clasp is a considered detail rather than a cursory one.
- Reference
- 855.10.351.10
- Brand
- Doxa
- Case size
- 40mm
- Case material
- Stainless steel
- Case shape
- Round
- Dial
- Orange
- Crystal
- Sapphire
- Bezel
- Unidirectional rotating
- Movement
- Automatic
- Calibre
- SW330
- Functions
- GMT
- Water resistance
- 250m
- Bracelet / strap
- Stainless steel bracelet
- Strap colour
- Silver
- Clasp
- Folding clasp
- Lume
- Luminous
- Retailer
- Mappin & Webb
Learn more about Doxa
Doxa was founded by Georges Ducommun in Le Locle in 1889, and spent its early decades on pocket watches and, notably, dashboard clocks for the emerging car industry — supplying Bugatti among others.
Its lasting contribution came much later. In 1967 Doxa released the SUB 300, developed in consultation with professional divers, and it introduced several things now taken for granted. The dial was orange, chosen after testing which colour remained visible longest as depth filtered out light. The bezel carried a US Navy no-decompression scale rather than simple minute markers, letting a diver read safe bottom time directly. The beads-of-rice bracelet included an expansion section to fit over a wetsuit.
Jacques Cousteau's organisation distributed the watches, and US Divers sold them in America. The SUB became genuine professional equipment rather than a dive-styled dress watch, and it appears throughout Clive Cussler's novels on the wrist of Dirk Pitt.
Doxa struggled through the quartz era and was largely dormant before being revived by the Jenny family, who reissued the SUB faithfully from 2002 onward.
The modern range remains almost entirely dive watches, with the same cushion case, the same bezel scale, and dial colours named for their depth-rating heritage — Professional orange, Sharkhunter black, Searambler silver, Caribbean blue.
- 1889
- Georges Ducommun founds Doxa in Le Locle.
- 1908
- Supplies dashboard clocks to early car manufacturers.
- 1967
- The SUB 300 debuts with an orange dial and decompression bezel.
- 2002
- The SUB is reissued under new ownership.
Also in 6 collections
This watch appears in Stainless Steel Watches (3,308), Back in Stock (2,703), Automatic Watches (1,651), Sports Watches (816), Dive Watches (578) and GMT Watches (242).
What the specifications mean
A mechanical watch built to be worn hard and got wet.
Strengths
- 250m water resistance, rated for actual diving
- 40mm suits most wrists
- Sapphire crystal, which resists scratching
- Luminous hands and markers for low light
- Second time zone for travelling
Doxa Sub 250T GMT alternatives
Watches from other brands at a similar price, style and size, so you can see what else your budget can buy.
| Specification | 855.10.351.10 | YA136357 | ZO9415 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Price | £2,390 | £2,040 | £1,999 |
| Case size | 40mm | 40mm | 40mm |
| Water resistance | 250m | 300m | 200m |
| Movement | Automatic | Automatic | Automatic |
| Strap | Stainless steel bracelet | Stainless steel bracelet | Stainless steel bracelet |
| Power reserve | — | 38 hours | 40 hours |
| This watch |
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|
Your new watch
Frequently asked questions, and things you should know about this watch
Can I swim with it?
Yes. At 250m it is rated for swimming, snorkelling and recreational diving.
Will the glass scratch?
Unlikely. Sapphire is second only to diamond in hardness and shrugs off everyday marking.
Does it need a battery?
No. It is automatic — the motion of your wrist winds it, and there is no cell to replace.
Is it a men's or women's watch?
Listed as men's, though at 40mm it sits in the range that suits anyone.
Cheapest place to buy
Mappin & Webb is the only UK retailer we track stocking this reference new, at £2,390. There is nothing to compare it against today.
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