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H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Retrograde Seconds Midnight Blue 42.8mm Mens Watch
Ref. 3250-1200
The midnight blue fumé dial is finished with a sunburst pattern and sealed beneath a domed sapphire crystal; a see-through sapphire caseback reveals the HMC 250 movement beneath, its anthracite bridges partially skeletonised and decorated with double Moser stripes. Leaf-shaped hands carry Super-LumiNova, and faceted applied indices mark the hours. At 6 o'clock, a 30-second retrograde jump seconds display arcs and snaps back, driven by a module developed by Agenhor SA. The 42.8mm steel case runs 14.2mm across the crystal and wears on a blue rubber strap with an engraved pin buckle.
- Reference
- 3250-1200
- Brand
- H. Moser & Cie
- Case size
- 42.8mm
- Case thickness
- 14.2mm
- Case material
- Stainless steel
- Case shape
- Round
- Dial
- Blue
- Crystal
- Sapphire
- Bezel
- Bidirectional rotating
- Movement
- Automatic
- Calibre
- HMC 250
- Water resistance
- 120m
- Bracelet / strap
- Stainless steel bracelet
- Strap colour
- Blue
- Clasp
- Buckle
- Lume
- Super-LumiNova
- Retailer
- Mappin & Webb
Learn more about H. Moser & Cie
Heinrich Moser left Schaffhausen in 1827 for St Petersburg, where he built a substantial watch business supplying the Russian market, and founded H. Moser & Cie in 1828. He returned to Schaffhausen wealthy and became a significant industrialist, financing the Rhine dam that provided the water power for the town's industry — including, later, IWC.
The original company was nationalised after the Russian Revolution and eventually disappeared. The name was revived in 2005 by descendants of the founder, and since 2012 it has been owned by the Meylan family through MELB Holding, which also owns the movement specialist Precision Engineering — meaning Moser makes its own hairsprings and escapements, a rarity at any scale.
The modern brand is best known for restraint taken to the point of provocation. The Concept series removes the logo, the indices, and any text at all, leaving a fumé dial — deep colour at the centre fading to near-black at the edge — and two hands. The Swiss Alp Watch, shaped like an Apple Watch and running a hand-wound movement, was a deliberate joke at the smartwatch's expense.
Moser's complications are serious despite the humour: perpetual calendars with a single central hand for the month, and flying tourbillons with double hairsprings. Production is around three thousand pieces annually.
- 1828
- Heinrich Moser founds the company, trading into Russia.
- 1917
- The Russian business is lost to the Revolution.
- 2005
- The name is revived by descendants of the founder.
- 2012
- The Meylan family acquires the brand with Precision Engineering.
Also in 3 collections
This watch appears in Stainless Steel Watches (2,706), Automatic Watches (1,549) and Blue Dial Watches (735).
What the specifications mean
A mechanical watch for everyday wear.
Strengths
- 120m water resistance covers swimming and watersports
- Sapphire crystal, which resists scratching
- Luminous hands and markers for low light
Worth knowing
- 14.2mm thick, so it will not disappear under a cuff
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Retrograde Seconds Midnight alternatives
Watches from other brands at a similar price, style and size, so you can see what else your budget can buy.
| Specification | 3250-1200 | 1LTAT.F01A.N001U | G0A41006 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Price | £21,900 | £21,400 | £18,100 |
| Case size | 42.8mm | 42.5mm | 42mm |
| Water resistance | 120m | 100m | 100m |
| Movement | Automatic | Automatic | Automatic |
| Strap | Stainless steel bracelet | Titanium bracelet | Stainless steel bracelet |
| Power reserve | — | 60 hours | 50 hours |
| This watch | Closely matched |
|
Your new watch
Frequently asked questions, and things you should know about this watch
Can I swim with it?
Yes. At 120m it is rated for swimming and snorkelling, though not for diving.
Water resistance explainedWill the glass scratch?
Unlikely. Sapphire is second only to diamond in hardness and shrugs off everyday marking.
Sapphire, mineral and acrylic comparedDoes it need a battery?
No. It is automatic — the motion of your wrist winds it, and there is no cell to replace.
Quartz, automatic and solar comparedIs it a men's or women's watch?
Listed as men's.
Cheapest place to buy
Mappin & Webb is the only UK retailer we track stocking this reference, so there is nothing to compare it against today.
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