Kensington Watches
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Retrograde Seconds Midnight Blue 42.8mm Mens Watch

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H. Moser & Cie

H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Retrograde Seconds Midnight Blue 42.8mm Mens Watch

Ref. 3250-1200

The midnight blue fumé dial is finished with a sunburst pattern and sealed beneath a domed sapphire crystal; a see-through sapphire caseback reveals the HMC 250 movement beneath, its anthracite bridges partially skeletonised and decorated with double Moser stripes. Leaf-shaped hands carry Super-LumiNova, and faceted applied indices mark the hours. At 6 o'clock, a 30-second retrograde jump seconds display arcs and snaps back, driven by a module developed by Agenhor SA. The 42.8mm steel case runs 14.2mm across the crystal and wears on a blue rubber strap with an engraved pin buckle.

Reference
3250-1200
Brand
H. Moser & Cie
Case size
42.8mm
Case thickness
14.2mm
Case material
Stainless steel
Case shape
Round
Dial
Blue
Crystal
Sapphire
Bezel
Bidirectional rotating
Movement
Automatic
Calibre
HMC 250
Water resistance
120m
Bracelet / strap
Stainless steel bracelet
Strap colour
Blue
Clasp
Buckle
Lume
Super-LumiNova
Retailer
Mappin & Webb
Learn more about H. Moser & Cie

Heinrich Moser left Schaffhausen in 1827 for St Petersburg, where he built a substantial watch business supplying the Russian market, and founded H. Moser & Cie in 1828. He returned to Schaffhausen wealthy and became a significant industrialist, financing the Rhine dam that provided the water power for the town's industry — including, later, IWC.

The original company was nationalised after the Russian Revolution and eventually disappeared. The name was revived in 2005 by descendants of the founder, and since 2012 it has been owned by the Meylan family through MELB Holding, which also owns the movement specialist Precision Engineering — meaning Moser makes its own hairsprings and escapements, a rarity at any scale.

The modern brand is best known for restraint taken to the point of provocation. The Concept series removes the logo, the indices, and any text at all, leaving a fumé dial — deep colour at the centre fading to near-black at the edge — and two hands. The Swiss Alp Watch, shaped like an Apple Watch and running a hand-wound movement, was a deliberate joke at the smartwatch's expense.

Moser's complications are serious despite the humour: perpetual calendars with a single central hand for the month, and flying tourbillons with double hairsprings. Production is around three thousand pieces annually.

1828
Heinrich Moser founds the company, trading into Russia.
1917
The Russian business is lost to the Revolution.
2005
The name is revived by descendants of the founder.
2012
The Meylan family acquires the brand with Precision Engineering.

All H. Moser & Cie watches

Also in 3 collections

This watch appears in Stainless Steel Watches (2,706), Automatic Watches (1,549) and Blue Dial Watches (735).

What the specifications mean

A mechanical watch for everyday wear.

Strengths

  • 120m water resistance covers swimming and watersports
  • Sapphire crystal, which resists scratching
  • Luminous hands and markers for low light

Worth knowing

  • 14.2mm thick, so it will not disappear under a cuff
Best forSwimmingEveryday wear
Less suited toUnder a shirt cuff

H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Retrograde Seconds Midnight alternatives

Watches from other brands at a similar price, style and size, so you can see what else your budget can buy.

Pioneer Retrograde Seconds Midnight Blue 42.8mm Mens Watch compared with 2 alternatives from other brands
SpecificationThis watchPioneer Retrograde Seconds Midnight Blue 42.8mm Mens Watch3250-1200Arnold & SonChronometry Longitude Titanium 42.5mm Watch1LTAT.F01A.N001UPiagetPoloG0A41006
Price£21,900£21,400£18,100
Case size42.8mm42.5mm42mm
Water resistance120m100m100m
MovementAutomaticAutomaticAutomatic
StrapStainless steel braceletTitanium braceletStainless steel bracelet
Power reserve60 hours50 hours
This watchClosely matched
  • Costs less

Your new watch

Frequently asked questions, and things you should know about this watch

Can I swim with it?

Yes. At 120m it is rated for swimming and snorkelling, though not for diving.

Water resistance explained

Will the glass scratch?

Unlikely. Sapphire is second only to diamond in hardness and shrugs off everyday marking.

Sapphire, mineral and acrylic compared

Does it need a battery?

No. It is automatic — the motion of your wrist winds it, and there is no cell to replace.

Quartz, automatic and solar compared

Is it a men's or women's watch?

Listed as men's.

Cheapest place to buy

Mappin & Webb is the only UK retailer we track stocking this reference, so there is nothing to compare it against today.

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