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Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar 39mm Rose Gold
Ref. Q1302520
Sits in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s upper tier here — more premium than three quarters of the Jaeger-LeCoultre watches we list, which start at £5,650.
Price range £5,650 to £29,950 across 20 Jaeger-LeCoultre watches in stock.The Master Ultra Thin line exists to answer a question that most complications make impossible: how thin can a watch be while still doing everything? A perpetual calendar with a moonphase is among the most mechanically demanding complications in watchmaking, typically demanding a case proportioned more like a pocket watch than a dress piece. Jaeger-LeCoultre's answer here is the 868/1, an in-house automatic built on ceramic rotor bearings that run without lubrication, wound in one direction only for efficiency, and fitted with 336 components into a case that sits just 9.2mm from caseback to crystal. That is thinner than many simple three-hand automatics, and it disappears beneath a cuff accordingly. The four subdials give the day, date, month and a full four-digit year display — a layout that reads immediately, without the ambiguity of some perpetual arrangements. A security indicator on the dial flags the brief daily window when manual calendar adjustment is inadvisable, which is a more useful detail than it might sound on the third or fourth year of ownership. At 39mm in solid rose gold, the watch settles at 77 grams on the wrist: genuinely light for the metal and the mechanism inside it.
- Reference
- Q1302520
- Brand
- Jaeger-LeCoultre
- Case size
- 39mm
- Case thickness
- 9.2mm
- Lug width
- 21mm
- Case material
- Rose gold
- Case shape
- Round
- Dial
- Ivory
- Crystal
- Sapphire
- Bezel
- Unidirectional rotating
- Movement
- Automatic
- Calibre
- 868/1
- Functions
- Date, Moonphase
- Water resistance
- 50m
- Bracelet / strap
- Leather strap
- Strap colour
- Brown
- Clasp
- Buckle
- Lume
- Luminous
- Condition
- Pre-owned
- Retailer
- Mappin & Webb
Additional specifications
- Power reserve
- 38 hours
- Warranty
- 2 years
- Gem set
- Yes
Learn more about Jaeger-LeCoultre
Antoine LeCoultre opened a workshop in Le Sentier in 1833 and set about solving a problem nobody else had: precise measurement. His Millionomètre of 1844 was the first instrument capable of measuring to a micron, and it let the Vallée de Joux move from skilled approximation to genuine precision.
The house became the movement supplier to the industry. Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Cartier, and Audemars Piguet all built watches on LeCoultre ébauches, and the manufacture has produced well over a thousand distinct calibres — an output no other house approaches. The partnership with the Parisian retailer Edmond Jaeger, formalised in the company name in 1937, gave it the Jaeger-LeCoultre it still carries.
Two products define it in the public mind. The Reverso of 1931 was designed so British Army officers in India could flip the case and protect the crystal during polo; the reversible case became one of the few genuinely original watch designs of the century. The Atmos clock, developed from 1928, runs on atmospheric temperature variation and needs no winding at all.
The Duoplan and the calibre 101 — still the smallest mechanical movement in series production, introduced in 1929 — sit alongside the gyrotourbillons and minute repeaters that keep the manufacture at the technical front.
Richemont has owned the house since 2000.
- 1833
- Antoine LeCoultre founds his workshop in Le Sentier.
- 1844
- The Millionomètre measures to the micron for the first time.
- 1929
- Calibre 101, the smallest mechanical movement, is introduced.
- 1931
- The Reverso launches with its flip case.
- 1937
- The Jaeger-LeCoultre name is formalised.
Also in 6 collections
This watch appears in Automatic Watches (1,432), Leather Strap Watches (918), Back in Stock (842), Dress Watches (446), Pre-Owned, Ex-Display & Vintage Watches (250) and Champagne & Cream Dial Watches (154).
What the specifications mean
A slim watch on leather, made for wearing with a shirt.
Strengths
- 39mm suits most wrists
- Sapphire crystal, which resists scratching
- Luminous hands and markers for low light
- One of Jaeger-LeCoultre's more premium watches
Worth knowing
- 50m suits rain and handwashing, not swimming
- 38-hour reserve means winding it after a day off
Compare alternatives
Watches from other brands at a similar price, style and size, so you can see what else your budget can buy.
| Specification | Q1302520 | O13150392002002 | 85250/000P |
|---|---|---|---|
| Price | £29,950 | £33,000 | £30,995 |
| Case size | 39mm | 39mm | 40mm |
| Water resistance | 50m | 50m | 30m |
| Movement | Automatic | Automatic | Automatic |
| Strap | Leather strap | Stainless steel bracelet | Leather strap |
| Power reserve | 38 hours | 55 hours | 43 hours |
| This watch | Closely matched |
|
Your new watch
Frequently asked questions, and things you should know about this watch
Can I swim with it?
Showering yes, swimming no. 50m covers splashes and brief immersion, but a swimming stroke generates well above the pressure that figure describes.
Will the glass scratch?
Unlikely. Sapphire is second only to diamond in hardness and shrugs off everyday marking.
Does it need a battery?
No. It is automatic — the motion of your wrist winds it, and there is no cell to replace.
How long does it run for when it's not worn?
About 38 hours fully wound — so it will usually stop if you leave it off overnight.
What size strap does it take?
21mm. Any strap of that width will fit, and on most modern watches quick-release bars make the swap a two-minute job with no tools.
Is it a men's or women's watch?
Listed as men's, though at 39mm it sits in the range that suits anyone.
Cheapest place to buy
Mappin & Webb at £29,950, pre-owned. No UK retailer we track lists this reference new.
Is this available new?
Not from the UK retailers we track. This reference is listed as pre-owned only, at £29,950 from Mappin & Webb. A pre-owned watch has been worn, and is normally sold under the retailer’s own warranty rather than the manufacturer’s.
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