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Patek Philippe Calatrava 40mm White Gold
Ref. 5226G-001
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Stepping up in Patek Philippe's range
The 5226G is not the Calatrava Patek has always made. Where the line's classical pieces use smooth, restrained cases and plain dials, this reference borrows the visual language of field instruments — syringe hands, a dial textured to recall vintage camera leather or coarse-grained asphalt, and a Clous de Paris hobnail pattern running continuously around the entire caseband. That last detail required an unusual structural decision: the lugs are anchored directly into the caseback rather than the mid-case, so the guilloché pattern meets itself without interruption. The result sits in an odd and compelling place between utility reference and haute horlogerie. The calibre beneath the dial is the 26-330 S C, the generation that replaced the long-serving 324 series. It introduces hack seconds — the hand stops when the crown is pulled, allowing the kind of precise time setting that matters if you use the date function rather than treat it as decoration. The 21-carat gold rotor and Patek Philippe Seal sit behind the caseback. At 8.53mm through, 40mm across, and 47.7mm lug to lug, the case is proportioned to disappear under a cuff rather than sit proud of one, and the nubuck beige calfskin — matching the lume tone on the hands and numerals — anchors the vintage-instrument reading all the way to the wrist.
- Reference
- 5226G-001
- Brand
- Patek Philippe
- Collection
- Calatrava
- Case size
- 40mm
- Case thickness
- 8.53mm
- Lug width
- 21mm
- Case material
- White gold
- Case shape
- Round
- Dial
- Grey
- Crystal
- Sapphire
- Movement
- Automatic
- Calibre
- 26-330 S C
- Functions
- Date
- Water resistance
- 30m
- Bracelet / strap
- Leather strap
- Strap colour
- Beige
- Clasp
- Buckle
- Lume
- Luminous
- Condition
- Pre-owned
- Retailer
- Goldsmiths
Additional specifications
- Lug-to-lug
- 47.7mm
- Power reserve
- 45 hours
- Gem set
- Yes
Learn more about Patek Philippe
Antoine Norbert de Patek, a Polish cavalry officer exiled after the November Uprising, founded a watch business in Geneva in 1839 with his countryman François Czapek. The partnership dissolved after six years, and in 1845 Patek took on the French watchmaker Adrien Philippe, inventor of the keyless winding crown. The firm became Patek Philippe in 1851.
That single invention mattered more than any other in the company's early history: it removed the winding key, and every modern watch descends from it. Queen Victoria bought a Patek pendant watch at the Great Exhibition the same year, establishing the royal patronage the house has traded on ever since.
The Stern family, dial manufacturers and long-standing suppliers, bought the company in 1932 during the Depression. Four generations later it remains in their hands — the last independent family-owned manufacture in Geneva, currently led by Thierry Stern.
Patek's reputation rests on complications: the Calibre 89 of 1989 carried thirty-three of them, and the Grandmaster Chime remains among the most complicated wristwatches made. The Nautilus, drawn by Gérald Genta in 1976 as a steel luxury sports watch, became an unlikely commercial phenomenon four decades after launch.
Production stays deliberately modest, in the tens of thousands annually, and every watch carries the Patek Philippe Seal, an in-house standard the company adopted in 2009 after abandoning the Geneva Seal as insufficiently strict.
- 1839
- Antoine Norbert de Patek and François Czapek found the firm in Geneva.
- 1845
- Adrien Philippe joins, bringing the keyless winding crown.
- 1851
- The company is renamed Patek Philippe; Queen Victoria buys a watch.
- 1932
- The Stern family acquires the company.
- 1976
- The Nautilus debuts, designed by Gérald Genta.
- 2009
- The Patek Philippe Seal replaces the Geneva Seal.
Also in 6 collections
This watch appears in Automatic Watches (1,750), Leather Strap Watches (1,037), Dress Watches (557), Pre-Owned, Ex-Display & Vintage Watches (369), Grey Dial Watches (256) and Solid Gold Watches (163).
2-year Goldsmiths warranty
What the specifications mean
A slim watch on leather, made for wearing with a shirt.
Strengths
- 40mm suits most wrists
- 8.53mm is unusually slim for a 40mm case
- Sapphire crystal, which resists scratching
- Luminous hands and markers for low light
- Sits in the lower half of Patek Philippe's range as we list it
Worth knowing
- 30m means keeping it away from water
Also seen with this model (3)
Other versions of this model, not necessarily this exact watch.
Patek Philippe Calatrava alternatives
Watches from other brands at a similar price, style and size, so you can see what else your budget can buy.
| Specification | 5226G-001 | 85250/000P | 15400ST.OO.1220ST.01 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Price | £35,950 | £30,995 | £34,000 |
| Case size | 40mm | 40mm | 41mm |
| Water resistance | 30m | 30m | 50m |
| Movement | Automatic | Automatic | Automatic |
| Strap | Leather strap | Leather strap | Stainless steel bracelet |
| Power reserve | 45 hours | 43 hours | 60 hours |
| This watch |
|
|
Your new watch
Frequently asked questions, and things you should know about this watch
Can I swim with it?
No. At 30m it will survive rain and handwashing, but not submersion of any kind.
Water resistance explainedWill the glass scratch?
Unlikely. Sapphire is second only to diamond in hardness and shrugs off everyday marking.
Sapphire, mineral and acrylic comparedDoes it need a battery?
No. It is automatic — the motion of your wrist winds it, and there is no cell to replace.
Quartz, automatic and solar comparedHow long does it run for when it's not worn?
About 45 hours fully wound — enough to survive a night off the wrist, but not a full weekend.
What size strap does it take?
21mm. Any strap of that width will fit, and on most modern watches quick-release bars make the swap a two-minute job with no tools.
Will it fit my wrist?
Lug-to-lug is 47.7mm, which suits wrists from roughly 16.5cm (6½ inches) upward.
Lug-to-lug decides fit more than case diameter does.
How to size a watch to your wristIs it a men's or women's watch?
Listed as men's, though at 40mm it sits in the range that suits anyone.
Cheapest place to buy
Goldsmiths is the only UK retailer we track stocking this reference, so there is nothing to compare it against today.
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