Kensington Watches
Nomos Glashütte Tangente Neomatik 38 Update

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Nomos Glashütte

Nomos Glashütte Tangente Neomatik 38 Update

Ref. 147

Among our 33 Nomos Glashütte watchesThis watch£3,680
Premium

Sits in Nomos Glashütte’s upper tier here — more premium than three quarters of the Nomos Glashütte watches we list, which start at £1,480.

Price range £1,480 to £5,020 across 33 Nomos Glashütte watches in stock.

The Tangente's Bauhaus architecture has always been about reduction — every element present because it must be, none because it could be. The "Update" models take that discipline and ask how a date complication can belong on such a dial rather than intruding on it. The answer is the peripheral ring date: a numbered track running around the outermost edge of the dial, with two small red markers closing in on either side of the current date. It keeps the centre of the white silver-plated dial entirely clear, so the oxidised black hands and the recessed small-seconds sub-dial at six o'clock read against an uninterrupted ground. The date mechanism itself is worth noting beyond its appearance — the DUW 6101's quick-set allows correction in both directions, which is a rarer convenience than it sounds. At 7.4mm thick the case disappears under a cuff, though the long, angled lugs that give the Tangente its characteristic silhouette push the lug-to-lug distance to 47.3mm, so the watch occupies more wrist than the 38.5mm diameter alone would suggest. The Shell Cordovan strap will stiffen and then soften in a way most leather straps do not, and once broken in it sits closer to the skin without prompting.

Reference
147
Brand
Nomos Glashütte
Collection
Tangente
Case size
38.5mm
Case thickness
7.4mm
Lug width
19mm
Case material
Stainless steel
Case shape
Round
Dial
White
Crystal
Sapphire
Bezel
Bidirectional rotating
Movement
Automatic
Calibre
DUW 6101
Functions
Date, Small seconds
Water resistance
50m
Bracelet / strap
Leather strap
Strap colour
Black
Clasp
Buckle
Lume
Luminous
Retailer
Mappin & Webb
Additional specifications
Lug-to-lug
47.3mm
Power reserve
42 hours
Learn more about Nomos Glashütte

Roland Schwertner, a photographer and computer technician from Düsseldorf with no watchmaking background, registered Nomos in Glashütte in January 1990 — two months after the Berlin Wall fell and before German reunification was complete. The town's watchmaking infrastructure had been state-owned for four decades and was suddenly available.

The design language was settled from the start and has barely moved: Bauhaus in the strict sense, drawing on the Dessau school's functionalism. Sans-serif numerals, no applied ornament, no unnecessary line, and dial layouts where every element earns its place. The Tangente, one of the first models, remains the flagship and looks the same today.

The technical ambition came later and was considerable for a company of its size. Nomos moved from modified Swiss ébauches to its own Alpha calibre, then to the DUW family, and in 2014 introduced the swing system — a proprietary escapement with an in-house hairspring, the component almost no independent manufacturer makes. Fewer than a dozen companies worldwide produce their own hairsprings.

The house is still independent, still based in a converted railway station in Glashütte, with design offices in Berlin. It occupies unusual territory: in-house movements and German finishing at prices closer to Swiss mid-range brands using bought-in calibres, which has made it the most common entry point into serious German watchmaking.

1990
Roland Schwertner founds Nomos in Glashütte.
1992
The Tangente launches and defines the house style.
2005
Production shifts to in-house movements.
2014
The swing system escapement with in-house hairspring is introduced.

All Nomos Glashütte watches

Also in 6 collections

This watch appears in the Nomos Glashütte Tangente range (7), Stainless Steel Watches (3,355), Back in Stock (2,731), Automatic Watches (1,699), Leather Strap Watches (1,083) and Dress Watches (548).

What the specifications mean

A slim watch on leather, made for wearing with a shirt.

Strengths

  • 38.5mm suits most wrists
  • 7.4mm is unusually slim for a 38.5mm case
  • Sapphire crystal, which resists scratching
  • Luminous hands and markers for low light
  • One of Nomos Glashütte's more premium watches

Worth knowing

  • 50m suits rain and handwashing, not swimming
Best forEveryday wearDress wearFormal wear
Less suited toSwimming

Nomos Glashütte Tangente Neomatik 38 Update alternatives

Watches from other brands at a similar price, style and size, so you can see what else your budget can buy.

Tangente Neomatik 38 Update compared with 2 alternatives from other brands
SpecificationThis watchTangente Neomatik 38 Update147LonginesConquest Heritage Central Power Reserve 38mm Mens Watch Blue AlligatorL16484922Raymond WeilMillesime 39mm Mens Watch Black7765-STC-20001
Price£3,680£3,800£3,550
Case size38.5mm38mm39.5mm
Water resistance50m50m50m
MovementAutomaticAutomaticAutomatic
StrapLeather strapLeather strapLeather strap
Power reserve42 hours72 hours62 hours
This watchClosely matchedClosely matched

Your new watch

Frequently asked questions, and things you should know about this watch

Can I swim with it?

Showering yes, swimming no. 50m covers splashes and brief immersion, but a swimming stroke generates well above the pressure that figure describes.

Will the glass scratch?

Unlikely. Sapphire is second only to diamond in hardness and shrugs off everyday marking.

Does it need a battery?

No. It is automatic — the motion of your wrist winds it, and there is no cell to replace.

How long does it run for when it's not worn?

About 42 hours fully wound — enough to survive a night off the wrist, but not a full weekend.

What size strap does it take?

19mm. Any strap of that width will fit, and on most modern watches quick-release bars make the swap a two-minute job with no tools.

Will it fit my wrist?

Lug-to-lug is 47.3mm, which suits wrists from roughly 16.5cm (6½ inches) upward.

Lug-to-lug decides fit more than case diameter does.

Is it a men's or women's watch?

Listed as unisex, and at this size it suits any wrist that takes the dimensions.

Cheapest place to buy

Mappin & Webb is the only UK retailer we track stocking this reference new, at £3,680. There is nothing to compare it against today.

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