Kensington Watches
Nomos Glashütte Zurich Worldtimer 40mm Mens Watch

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Nomos Glashütte

Nomos Glashütte Zurich Worldtimer 40mm Mens Watch

Ref. 805

Among our 33 Nomos Glashütte watchesThis watch£4,900
Premium

Sits in Nomos Glashütte’s upper tier here — more premium than three quarters of the Nomos Glashütte watches we list, which start at £1,480.

Price range £1,480 to £5,020 across 33 Nomos Glashütte watches in stock.

The Zürich Worldtimer was built around a specific problem: how to read global time at a glance without turning the exercise into a puzzle. The solution is a white silver-plated galvanised dial arranged in distinct layers — a city ring at the outer edge naming the zones, a 24-hour disc beneath it marking day and night, and the local time at the centre. The architecture is legible immediately, which on a world-timer is harder to achieve than it sounds. At 39.9mm the case reads as moderate, but the faceted lugs stretch the lug-to-lug distance to 49.4mm, so it sits with more presence than the diameter alone suggests. At 10.9mm it is genuinely slim for a watch carrying this much mechanism, and it wears closer to the wrist than most travel complications of any make. The rhodium-plated hands carry no lume, so the dial depends entirely on reflected light — fine in use, worth knowing. The DUW 5201 is built and finished in Glashütte using the traditional ribbing and perlage the town is known for, and it incorporates the proprietary swing-system escapement that Nomos developed in-house. The movement visible through the caseback is not decorative afterthought; the finishing is considered on the assumption that it will be looked at. The Shell Cordovan strap is an understated choice that will outlast most alternatives and soften considerably with wear.

Reference
805
Brand
Nomos Glashütte
Collection
Zürich
Case size
39.9mm
Case thickness
10.9mm
Lug width
20mm
Case material
Stainless steel
Case shape
Round
Dial
White
Crystal
Sapphire
Movement
Automatic
Calibre
DUW 5201
Functions
Small seconds
Water resistance
30m
Bracelet / strap
Leather strap
Strap colour
Black
Clasp
Buckle
Lume
Luminous
Retailer
Mappin & Webb
Additional specifications
Lug-to-lug
49.4mm
Power reserve
42 hours
Learn more about Nomos Glashütte

Roland Schwertner, a photographer and computer technician from Düsseldorf with no watchmaking background, registered Nomos in Glashütte in January 1990 — two months after the Berlin Wall fell and before German reunification was complete. The town's watchmaking infrastructure had been state-owned for four decades and was suddenly available.

The design language was settled from the start and has barely moved: Bauhaus in the strict sense, drawing on the Dessau school's functionalism. Sans-serif numerals, no applied ornament, no unnecessary line, and dial layouts where every element earns its place. The Tangente, one of the first models, remains the flagship and looks the same today.

The technical ambition came later and was considerable for a company of its size. Nomos moved from modified Swiss ébauches to its own Alpha calibre, then to the DUW family, and in 2014 introduced the swing system — a proprietary escapement with an in-house hairspring, the component almost no independent manufacturer makes. Fewer than a dozen companies worldwide produce their own hairsprings.

The house is still independent, still based in a converted railway station in Glashütte, with design offices in Berlin. It occupies unusual territory: in-house movements and German finishing at prices closer to Swiss mid-range brands using bought-in calibres, which has made it the most common entry point into serious German watchmaking.

1990
Roland Schwertner founds Nomos in Glashütte.
1992
The Tangente launches and defines the house style.
2005
Production shifts to in-house movements.
2014
The swing system escapement with in-house hairspring is introduced.

All Nomos Glashütte watches

Also in 5 collections

This watch appears in Stainless Steel Watches (3,355), Back in Stock (2,731), Automatic Watches (1,699), Leather Strap Watches (1,083) and Dress Watches (548).

What the specifications mean

A slim watch on leather, made for wearing with a shirt.

Strengths

  • 39.9mm suits most wrists
  • Sapphire crystal, which resists scratching
  • Luminous hands and markers for low light
  • One of Nomos Glashütte's more premium watches

Worth knowing

  • 30m means keeping it away from water
Best forEveryday wearFormal wear
Less suited toWater

Nomos Glashütte Zurich Worldtimer alternatives

Watches from other brands at a similar price, style and size, so you can see what else your budget can buy.

Zurich Worldtimer 40mm Mens Watch compared with 2 alternatives from other brands
SpecificationThis watchZurich Worldtimer 40mm Mens Watch805Louis ErardX Konstantin Chaykin Unfrogettable Purple 40mm Limited Edition Mens Watch85340AA02.BVA192Grand SeikoAutomatic GMT Moondrop 39.5mm Mens Watch BlueSBGM257
Price£4,900£4,950£4,550
Case size39.9mm40mm39.5mm
Water resistance30m50m30m
MovementAutomaticAutomaticAutomatic
StrapLeather strapLeather strapLeather strap
Power reserve42 hours38 hours72 hours
This watch
  • Rated deeper
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Frequently asked questions, and things you should know about this watch

Can I swim with it?

No. At 30m it will survive rain and handwashing, but not submersion of any kind.

Will the glass scratch?

Unlikely. Sapphire is second only to diamond in hardness and shrugs off everyday marking.

Does it need a battery?

No. It is automatic — the motion of your wrist winds it, and there is no cell to replace.

How long does it run for when it's not worn?

About 42 hours fully wound — enough to survive a night off the wrist, but not a full weekend.

What size strap does it take?

20mm. Any strap of that width will fit, and on most modern watches quick-release bars make the swap a two-minute job with no tools.

Will it fit my wrist?

Lug-to-lug is 49.4mm, which suits wrists from roughly 16.5cm (6½ inches) upward.

Lug-to-lug decides fit more than case diameter does.

Is it a men's or women's watch?

Listed as men's, though at 39.9mm it sits in the range that suits anyone.

Cheapest place to buy

Mappin & Webb is the only UK retailer we track stocking this reference new, at £4,900. There is nothing to compare it against today.

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