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Chanel J12 Watch Calibre 12.2, 33MM
Ref. H11683
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Stepping up in Chanel's range
The J12 appeared in 2000 as Chanel's argument that a ceramic sports watch could sit alongside the established Swiss names, and the blue variant shown at Watches and Wonders pushed that further: the matte finish required years of pigmentation and sintering research to produce a ceramic that reads this particular shade without gloss. Most blue ceramics settle into something bright and slightly artificial; this one is quieter and deeper. The movement inside is Calibre 12.2, built for Chanel by Kenissi — the manufacture Chanel co-owns — and sized specifically for the 33mm case rather than adapted down from something larger. It is COSC-certified, which means independent verification of daily rate accuracy, and the openwork tungsten rotor visible through the exhibition caseback is formed as a precise geometric disc: dense enough to wind efficiently, considered enough to be worth looking at. The unidirectional bezel carries a ceramic insert matched to the dial, and the bracelet's triple-folding clasp is designed to sit flush rather than proud, which matters more than it sounds on a ceramic link construction that would otherwise catch at a cuff edge.
- Reference
- H11683
- Brand
- Chanel
- Case size
- 33mm
- Case material
- Ceramic
- Case shape
- Round
- Dial
- Blue
- Crystal
- Sapphire
- Bezel
- Unidirectional rotating
- Movement
- Automatic
- Calibre
- Calibre 12.2
- Functions
- Skeleton dial
- Water resistance
- 200m
- Bracelet / strap
- Ceramic bracelet
- Strap colour
- Blue
- Clasp
- Folding clasp
- Lume
- Luminous
- Retailer
- Goldsmiths
Additional specifications
- Power reserve
- 50 hours
Learn more about Chanel
Gabrielle Chanel opened her first shop in 1910 and spent the following decades removing things from women's clothing — corsetry, ornament, the assumption that formality required discomfort. The jersey suit, the little black dress and No. 5 came from that.
The watches are made in-house, not licensed. Chanel opened its own watch manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1993 and has since taken stakes in the movement maker Kenissi, giving it access to genuinely serious mechanics.
Two designs define the output. The Première of 1987 took its octagonal case from the stopper of the No. 5 bottle and its chain-and-leather bracelet from the quilted handbag. The J12 of 2000 was made almost entirely from high-tech ceramic at a time when almost nobody was doing it, and it changed what a fashion house's watch could be taken seriously as.
More recently the Monsieur and the Code Coco have carried in-house calibres, including a jumping-hour movement developed by Chanel itself.
The company remains privately owned by the Wertheimer family.
- 1910
- Gabrielle Chanel opens her first shop in Paris.
- 1987
- The Première introduces the octagonal No. 5 case.
- 1993
- Opens its own watch manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds.
- 2000
- The J12 arrives in high-tech ceramic.
- 2016
- The Monsieur brings a Chanel in-house calibre.
Also in 6 collections
This watch appears in Automatic Watches (1,148), Watches Under 37mm (1,065), Blue Dial Watches (624), Sports Watches (572), Dive Watches (388) and Skeleton Watches (190).
Manufacturer’s guarantee
What the specifications mean
A mechanical watch built to be worn hard and got wet.
Strengths
- 200m water resistance, rated for actual diving
- 33mm wears small and slips under any cuff
- Sapphire crystal, which resists scratching
- Luminous hands and markers for low light
Compare alternatives
Watches from other brands at a similar price, style and size, so you can see what else your budget can buy.
| Specification | H11683 | 278608-3001 | L81260972 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Price | £6,600 | £7,650 | £5,550 |
| Case size | 33mm | 33mm | 34mm |
| Water resistance | 200m | 30m | 30m |
| Movement | Automatic | Automatic | Automatic |
| Strap | Ceramic bracelet | Leather strap | Leather strap |
| Power reserve | 50 hours | 42 hours | 72 hours |
| This watch |
|
|
Your new watch
Frequently asked questions, and things you should know about this watch
Can I swim with it?
Yes. At 200m it is rated for swimming, snorkelling and recreational diving.
Will the glass scratch?
Unlikely. Sapphire is second only to diamond in hardness and shrugs off everyday marking.
Does it need a battery?
No. It is automatic — the motion of your wrist winds it, and there is no cell to replace.
How long does it run for when it's not worn?
About 50 hours fully wound — enough to survive a night off the wrist, but not a full weekend.
Is it a men's or women's watch?
Listed as unisex, and at this size it suits any wrist that takes the dimensions.
Cheapest place to buy
Goldsmiths is the only UK retailer we track stocking this reference, so there is nothing to compare it against today.
Who are Goldsmiths?
Goldsmiths has been selling watches in Britain since 1778 and is part of the Watches of Switzerland Group, which is listed on the London Stock Exchange. They are an authorised dealer, so a watch comes with the manufacturer’s own warranty.
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