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Chanel J12 Watch Calibre 12.1, 33 Mm
Ref. H5696
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Stepping up in the same colour and case shape
The J12 arrived in 2000 as something genuinely unusual — a unisex ceramic sports watch from a house better known for couture, and one that held its own on purely horological terms. For most of its life the 33mm case ran on quartz, which was defensible but limited. The Calibre 12.2 changes that entirely: developed through Kenissi, the movement manufacturer Chanel part-owns, it carries COSC chronometer certification and an openwork tungsten rotor that is visible through the caseback — proper watchmaking credentials scaled down to fit, rather than compromised to fit. Chanel's ceramic is notably harder than standard steel, and it shows in how the bracelet wears: no scratching, no warming in the sun, and it reaches body temperature quickly enough that the watch never feels like a cold intrusion on the wrist. At 33mm the proportions sit closer to a dressed watch than a diver despite the 200m rating, and the white Arabic numerals read cleanly against the black dial without any ambient-light coaxing. The triple-folding clasp integrates flush into the bracelet profile — the mechanism disappears into the links rather than announcing itself, which is the right call for a design this considered.
- Reference
- H5696
- Brand
- Chanel
- Case size
- 33mm
- Case material
- Ceramic
- Case shape
- Round
- Dial
- Black
- Crystal
- Sapphire
- Bezel
- Unidirectional rotating
- Movement
- Automatic
- Calibre
- Calibre 12.2
- Functions
- Skeleton dial
- Water resistance
- 200m
- Bracelet / strap
- Ceramic bracelet
- Strap colour
- Black
- Clasp
- Folding clasp
- Lume
- Luminous
- Retailer
- Goldsmiths
Additional specifications
- Power reserve
- 50 hours
Learn more about Chanel
Gabrielle Chanel opened her first shop in 1910 and spent the following decades removing things from women's clothing — corsetry, ornament, the assumption that formality required discomfort. The jersey suit, the little black dress and No. 5 came from that.
The watches are made in-house, not licensed. Chanel opened its own watch manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1993 and has since taken stakes in the movement maker Kenissi, giving it access to genuinely serious mechanics.
Two designs define the output. The Première of 1987 took its octagonal case from the stopper of the No. 5 bottle and its chain-and-leather bracelet from the quilted handbag. The J12 of 2000 was made almost entirely from high-tech ceramic at a time when almost nobody was doing it, and it changed what a fashion house's watch could be taken seriously as.
More recently the Monsieur and the Code Coco have carried in-house calibres, including a jumping-hour movement developed by Chanel itself.
The company remains privately owned by the Wertheimer family.
- 1910
- Gabrielle Chanel opens her first shop in Paris.
- 1987
- The Première introduces the octagonal No. 5 case.
- 1993
- Opens its own watch manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds.
- 2000
- The J12 arrives in high-tech ceramic.
- 2016
- The Monsieur brings a Chanel in-house calibre.
Also in 6 collections
This watch appears in Automatic Watches (1,148), Watches Under 37mm (1,065), Sports Watches (572), Dive Watches (388), All Black Watches (253) and Skeleton Watches (190).
Manufacturer’s guarantee
What the specifications mean
A mechanical watch built to be worn hard and got wet.
Strengths
- 200m water resistance, rated for actual diving
- 33mm wears small and slips under any cuff
- Sapphire crystal, which resists scratching
- Luminous hands and markers for low light
Compare alternatives
Watches from other brands at a similar price, style and size, so you can see what else your budget can buy.
| Specification | H5696 |  278608-3001 |  L81260972 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Price | £6,600 | £7,650 | £5,550 |
| Case size | 33mm | 33mm | 34mm |
| Water resistance | 200m | 30m | 30m |
| Movement | Automatic | Automatic | Automatic |
| Strap | Ceramic bracelet | Leather strap | Leather strap |
| Power reserve | 50 hours | 42 hours | 72 hours |
| This watch |
|
|
Your new watch
Frequently asked questions, and things you should know about this watch
Can I swim with it?
Yes. At 200m it is rated for swimming, snorkelling and recreational diving.
Will the glass scratch?
Unlikely. Sapphire is second only to diamond in hardness and shrugs off everyday marking.
Does it need a battery?
No. It is automatic — the motion of your wrist winds it, and there is no cell to replace.
How long does it run for when it's not worn?
About 50 hours fully wound — enough to survive a night off the wrist, but not a full weekend.
Is it a men's or women's watch?
Listed as unisex, and at this size it suits any wrist that takes the dimensions.
Cheapest place to buy
Goldsmiths is the only UK retailer we track stocking this reference, so there is nothing to compare it against today.
Who are Goldsmiths?
Goldsmiths has been selling watches in Britain since 1778 and is part of the Watches of Switzerland Group, which is listed on the London Stock Exchange. They are an authorised dealer, so a watch comes with the manufacturer’s own warranty.
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