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Chanel J12 Watch Calibre 12.1, 38 Mm
Ref. H5700
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Stepping up in Chanel's range
The J12 turned twenty in 2019, and Chanel marked the anniversary not with a limited edition but with a ground-up mechanical revision. The Calibre 12.1 at its heart was developed by Kenissi, the Swiss manufacture in which Chanel holds a stake, and carries COSC chronometer certification alongside a 70-hour power reserve — considerably more than the movement it replaced. A circular tungsten rotor, visible through the caseback, is the signature detail of that redesign, and the whole exercise was directed by Arnaud Chastaingt, who tightened the dial's typography and refined the case profile while keeping the shape unmistakably J12. The ceramic here is polished with diamond powder to a finish that reads as cooler and smoother against the skin than brushed metal ever does, and at 38mm it sits at the crossover point where the watch works without adjustment on most wrists regardless of gender. At 12.6mm through the case it is not a thin watch, but the integrated bracelet pulls the whole thing flush rather than proud, distributing 133 grams in a way that rarely draws attention on a long day. The clasp itself is stainless steel hidden beneath the ceramic surface — invisible in wear, which is precisely what the design requires.
- Reference
- H5700
- Brand
- Chanel
- Collection
- J12
- Case size
- 38mm
- Case thickness
- 12.6mm
- Lug width
- 17mm
- Case material
- Ceramic
- Case shape
- Round
- Dial
- White
- Crystal
- Sapphire
- Bezel
- Unidirectional rotating
- Movement
- Automatic
- Calibre
- Calibre 12.1
- Functions
- Date
- Water resistance
- 200m
- Bracelet / strap
- Ceramic bracelet
- Strap colour
- White
- Clasp
- Deployant clasp
- Lume
- Luminous
- Retailer
- Goldsmiths
Additional specifications
- Power reserve
- 70 hours
Learn more about Chanel
Gabrielle Chanel opened her first shop in 1910 and spent the following decades removing things from women's clothing — corsetry, ornament, the assumption that formality required discomfort. The jersey suit, the little black dress and No. 5 came from that.
The watches are made in-house, not licensed. Chanel opened its own watch manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1993 and has since taken stakes in the movement maker Kenissi, giving it access to genuinely serious mechanics.
Two designs define the output. The Première of 1987 took its octagonal case from the stopper of the No. 5 bottle and its chain-and-leather bracelet from the quilted handbag. The J12 of 2000 was made almost entirely from high-tech ceramic at a time when almost nobody was doing it, and it changed what a fashion house's watch could be taken seriously as.
More recently the Monsieur and the Code Coco have carried in-house calibres, including a jumping-hour movement developed by Chanel itself.
The company remains privately owned by the Wertheimer family.
- 1910
- Gabrielle Chanel opens her first shop in Paris.
- 1987
- The Première introduces the octagonal No. 5 case.
- 1993
- Opens its own watch manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds.
- 2000
- The J12 arrives in high-tech ceramic.
- 2016
- The Monsieur brings a Chanel in-house calibre.
Also in 5 collections
This watch appears in the Chanel J12 range (29), Automatic Watches (1,588), Sports Watches (727), Dive Watches (517) and Ceramic Watches (98).
Manufacturer’s guarantee
Best of 2 retailers
What the specifications mean
A mechanical watch built to be worn hard and got wet.
Strengths
- 200m water resistance, rated for actual diving
- 38mm suits most wrists
- Sapphire crystal, which resists scratching
- 70-hour reserve survives a weekend off the wrist
- Luminous hands and markers for low light
Chanel J12 alternatives
Watches from other brands at a similar price, style and size, so you can see what else your budget can buy.
| Specification | H5700 | 1-39-11-06-80-06 | N3001.07Q05.P01.R01 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Price | £6,900 | £8,200 | £4,850 |
| Case size | 38mm | 39.5mm | 39mm |
| Water resistance | 200m | 200m | 200m |
| Movement | Automatic | Automatic | Automatic |
| Strap | Ceramic bracelet | Rubber strap | Rubber strap |
| Power reserve | 70 hours | — | 41 hours |
| This watch |
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Your new watch
Frequently asked questions, and things you should know about this watch
Can I swim with it?
Yes. At 200m it is rated for swimming, snorkelling and recreational diving.
Water resistance explainedWill the glass scratch?
Unlikely. Sapphire is second only to diamond in hardness and shrugs off everyday marking.
Sapphire, mineral and acrylic comparedDoes it need a battery?
No. It is automatic — the motion of your wrist winds it, and there is no cell to replace.
Quartz, automatic and solar comparedHow long does it run for when it's not worn?
About 70 hours fully wound — enough to sit off the wrist over a weekend and still be running.
What size strap does it take?
17mm. Any strap of that width will fit, and on most modern watches quick-release bars make the swap a two-minute job with no tools.
Is it a men's or women's watch?
Listed as unisex, and at this size it suits any wrist that takes the dimensions.
Cheapest place to buy
Both Goldsmiths and Mappin & Webb list it at £6,900, so choose on delivery and warranty rather than price.
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