Kensington Watches
Doxa Sub 1500T Professional 45mm Mens Watch

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Doxa

Doxa Sub 1500T Professional 45mm Mens Watch

Ref. 883.10.351.10

The SUB 1500T draws its design language from the SUB 300T Conquistador of 1968, the first diver offered to the general public with an integrated helium release valve — a piece of engineering that made saturation diving a real possibility for working divers. The 1500T carries that valve forward alongside a rated depth that makes the original look modest, and the orange dial and cushion case that made the Conquistador recognisable remain essentially untouched. At 45mm the case sounds large on paper, but the 47mm lug-to-lug measurement means it sits closer to the wrist than the diameter implies, hugging the curve rather than bridging across it. The orange dial is not subtle — it was never meant to be, having been chosen originally for visibility in low-visibility water — and it reads with the same directness above the surface. The bezel carries Doxa's patented non-decompression limit scale in feet, following US Navy tables, which sets it apart from the minute-track bezels found on most sport divers. The Sellita SW200-1 inside has been decorated by Doxa and runs a 50-hour power reserve, which gives a full weekend of wear without winding. The bracelet clasp incorporates a wetsuit extension, a detail that goes unnoticed in a suit and becomes immediately useful the moment it is needed.

Reference
883.10.351.10
Brand
Doxa
Case size
45mm
Case thickness
16.25mm
Lug width
21mm
Case material
Stainless steel
Case shape
Cushion
Dial
Orange
Crystal
Sapphire
Bezel
Unidirectional rotating
Movement
Automatic
Calibre
Sellita SW200-1
Functions
Date
Water resistance
1500m
Bracelet / strap
Stainless steel bracelet
Strap colour
Silver
Clasp
Folding clasp
Lume
Super-LumiNova
Retailer
Mappin & Webb
Additional specifications
Lug-to-lug
47mm
Power reserve
50 hours
Origin
Swiss made
Learn more about Doxa

Doxa was founded by Georges Ducommun in Le Locle in 1889, and spent its early decades on pocket watches and, notably, dashboard clocks for the emerging car industry — supplying Bugatti among others.

Its lasting contribution came much later. In 1967 Doxa released the SUB 300, developed in consultation with professional divers, and it introduced several things now taken for granted. The dial was orange, chosen after testing which colour remained visible longest as depth filtered out light. The bezel carried a US Navy no-decompression scale rather than simple minute markers, letting a diver read safe bottom time directly. The beads-of-rice bracelet included an expansion section to fit over a wetsuit.

Jacques Cousteau's organisation distributed the watches, and US Divers sold them in America. The SUB became genuine professional equipment rather than a dive-styled dress watch, and it appears throughout Clive Cussler's novels on the wrist of Dirk Pitt.

Doxa struggled through the quartz era and was largely dormant before being revived by the Jenny family, who reissued the SUB faithfully from 2002 onward.

The modern range remains almost entirely dive watches, with the same cushion case, the same bezel scale, and dial colours named for their depth-rating heritage — Professional orange, Sharkhunter black, Searambler silver, Caribbean blue.

1889
Georges Ducommun founds Doxa in Le Locle.
1908
Supplies dashboard clocks to early car manufacturers.
1967
The SUB 300 debuts with an orange dial and decompression bezel.
2002
The SUB is reissued under new ownership.

All Doxa watches

Also in 6 collections

This watch appears in Stainless Steel Watches (2,516), Automatic Watches (1,407), Back in Stock (1,193), Watches 44mm and Over (705), Sports Watches (667) and Dive Watches (473).

What the specifications mean

A mechanical watch built to be worn hard and got wet.

Strengths

  • 1500m water resistance, rated for actual diving
  • 47mm lug-to-lug keeps the 45mm case wearable
  • Sapphire crystal, which resists scratching
  • Luminous hands and markers for low light

Worth knowing

  • 45mm is a large watch with real presence
  • 16.25mm thick, so it will not disappear under a cuff
Best forDivingSwimmingEveryday wear
Less suited toSmall wristsUnder a shirt cuff

Compare alternatives

Watches from other brands at a similar price, style and size, so you can see what else your budget can buy.

Sub 1500T Professional 45mm Mens Watch compared with 2 alternatives from other brands
SpecificationThis watchSub 1500T Professional 45mm Mens Watch883.10.351.10SeikoSpeedtimer ‘Maximum Precision’ 8R Mechanical Chronograph 42mm Mens Watch182800000016HamiltonKhaki BelowZero Titanium 46mmH78505330
Price£2,390£2,400£1,785
Case size45mm42mm46mm
Water resistance1500m1000m
MovementAutomaticAutomaticAutomatic
StrapStainless steel braceletRubber strap
Power reserve50 hours80 hours
This watch
  • Wears smaller
  • Costs less
  • Rated shallower

Your new watch

Frequently asked questions, and things you should know about this watch

Can I swim with it?

Yes. At 1500m it is rated for swimming, snorkelling and recreational diving.

Will the glass scratch?

Unlikely. Sapphire is second only to diamond in hardness and shrugs off everyday marking.

Does it need a battery?

No. It is automatic — the motion of your wrist winds it, and there is no cell to replace.

How long does it run for when it's not worn?

About 50 hours fully wound — enough to survive a night off the wrist, but not a full weekend.

What size strap does it take?

21mm. Any strap of that width will fit, and on most modern watches quick-release bars make the swap a two-minute job with no tools.

Will it fit my wrist?

Lug-to-lug is 47mm, which suits wrists from roughly 16cm (6¼ inches) upward.

Lug-to-lug decides fit more than case diameter does.

Is it a men's or women's watch?

Listed as men's.

Cheapest place to buy

Mappin & Webb is the only UK retailer we track stocking this reference new, at £2,390. There is nothing to compare it against today.

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