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Louis Erard Le Régulateur Louis Erard X Alain Silberstein Limited Edition 40mm Mens Watch Black
Ref. 85358TT09.BTT82
Sits in Louis Erard’s upper tier here — more premium than three quarters of the Louis Erard watches we list, which start at £1,975.
Price range £1,975 to £5,950 across 24 Louis Erard watches in stock.Alain Silberstein spent decades applying postmodern architectural logic to watchmaking — primary colours, Bauhaus geometry, the conviction that a dial could carry philosophical weight without losing legibility. Louis Erard has made a habit of inviting designers with strong points of view into its Excellence series, and this collaboration produces something that justifies the format: a regulator whose separated indications become, in Silberstein's hands, a deliberate visual argument. Minutes read from a large white arrow at centre, hours from a red triangle in a subdial at twelve, small seconds from a yellow wavy lacquer hand at six. The regulator layout existed long before either party, but the colour coding turns its functional logic into something close to a diagram of time itself. The case is built from two grades of titanium used differently: micro-blasted Grade 2 forms the main structure, polished Grade 5 runs as vertical side bars flanking it. The contrast in surface and alloy gives the case a depth that a single-material approach would not, and a red lacquered crown ties the architecture back to the dial's hour marker. At 40mm with a 46.8mm lug-to-lug and 11.8mm thickness, it sits compact and light on the wrist. The Sellita SW266-1 beneath has been substantially reworked from its base configuration to drive three independent offset indications — this is not a standard movement with a modified dial; the complication required engineering the calibre to match Silberstein's layout. The strap fastens through a titanium end link via a hook-and-loop closure rather than a conventional buckle, which sounds unconventional and, in practice, makes fit adjustment faster than almost any clasp system will.
- Reference
- 85358TT09.BTT82
- Brand
- Louis Erard
- Collection
- Excellence
- Case size
- 40mm
- Case thickness
- 11.8mm
- Lug width
- 22mm
- Case material
- Titanium
- Case shape
- Round
- Dial
- Black
- Crystal
- Sapphire
- Movement
- Automatic
- Calibre
- Sellita SW266-1
- Functions
- Small seconds
- Water resistance
- 100m
- Bracelet / strap
- Fabric strap
- Strap colour
- Black
- Clasp
- Deployant clasp
- Lume
- Luminous
- Retailer
- Mappin & Webb
Additional specifications
- Lug-to-lug
- 46.8mm
- Power reserve
- 38 hours
- Origin
- Swiss made
Learn more about Louis Erard
Louis Erard was born in La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1893, into a town then producing a large share of the world's watches. He worked in its workshops, founded a watchmaking school in 1929, and set up a casing and assembly business with André Perret the same year. The first watches under his own name followed in 1931.
Assembly was the trade at the time: components came from independent artisans and the assembler built, adjusted and finished the watch. By 1937 Erard employed more than sixty people and was selling internationally.
The quartz crisis did its usual damage. The company was sold in 1991 and production moved to Le Noirmont in the Jura, then sold again in 2003 to a group led by Alain Spinedi, who refocused it on mechanical watches at prices that undercut everyone doing similar work.
The regulator became the signature — the dial layout that separates hours, minutes and seconds onto their own axes, borrowed from precision reference clocks, and rarely seen at this price.
What has made the brand's recent reputation is collaboration: limited editions with independent watchmakers whose own work is unobtainable, among them Vianney Halter, Konstantin Chaykin and Alain Silberstein, on Sellita and Valjoux movements.
- 1929
- Founds a watchmaking school and a casing business with André Perret.
- 1931
- The first watches carry the Louis Erard name.
- 1991
- Sold, with production moving to Le Noirmont.
- 2003
- Relaunched under Alain Spinedi around mechanical watches.
- 2020
- Collaborations with independent watchmakers define the brand.
Also in 5 collections
This watch appears in the Louis Erard Excellence range (5), Back in Stock (4,300), Automatic Watches (1,403), Limited Edition Watches (167) and Titanium Watches (140).
What the specifications mean
A mechanical watch for everyday wear.
Strengths
- 100m water resistance covers swimming and watersports
- 40mm suits most wrists
- 46.8mm lug-to-lug keeps the 40mm case wearable
- Sapphire crystal, which resists scratching
- Luminous hands and markers for low light
Worth knowing
- 38-hour reserve means winding it after a day off
Louis Erard Le Régulateur Louis Erard alternatives
Watches from other brands at a similar price, style and size, so you can see what else your budget can buy.
| Specification | 85358TT09.BTT82 | 790 | L37214532 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Price | £4,500 | £4,400 | £4,350 |
| Case size | 40mm | 40mm | 39.5mm |
| Water resistance | 100m | 100m | 100m |
| Movement | Automatic | Automatic | Automatic |
| Strap | Fabric strap | Stainless steel bracelet | Leather strap |
| Power reserve | 38 hours | 42 hours | 68 hours |
| This watch | Closely matched | Closely matched |
Your new watch
Frequently asked questions, and things you should know about this watch
Can I swim with it?
Yes. At 100m it is rated for swimming and snorkelling, though not for diving.
Water resistance explainedWill the glass scratch?
Unlikely. Sapphire is second only to diamond in hardness and shrugs off everyday marking.
Sapphire, mineral and acrylic comparedDoes it need a battery?
No. It is automatic — the motion of your wrist winds it, and there is no cell to replace.
Quartz, automatic and solar comparedHow long does it run for when it's not worn?
About 38 hours fully wound — so it will usually stop if you leave it off overnight.
What size strap does it take?
22mm. Any strap of that width will fit, and on most modern watches quick-release bars make the swap a two-minute job with no tools.
Will it fit my wrist?
Lug-to-lug is 46.8mm, which suits wrists from roughly 16cm (6¼ inches) upward.
Lug-to-lug decides fit more than case diameter does.
How to size a watch to your wristIs it a men's or women's watch?
Listed as men's, though at 40mm it sits in the range that suits anyone.
Cheapest place to buy
Mappin & Webb is the only UK retailer we track stocking this reference, so there is nothing to compare it against today.
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