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Doxa Sub 200 Professional 42mm Mens Watch
Ref. 799.10.351.21
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Stepping up in the same colour and case shape
The orange dial traces directly to Doxa's collaboration with Jacques Cousteau in the 1960s, when the company supplied divers with watches in a colour bold enough to be spotted at depth. The Sub 200 Professional is the contemporary heir to that tradition, revived at Baselworld 2019 as a considered return to the original form rather than a reimagining of it. What makes it wear smaller than its 42mm suggests is the lug geometry: the twisted lyre lugs curve down and the lug-to-lug distance stays at 46mm, so the case follows the wrist rather than bridging it. The domed sapphire is designed to mimic the old plexiglass profile, and it catches light differently from a flat crystal — rounding the edge of the dial visually and giving the watch a depth that photographs tend to flatten out. The orange FKM rubber strap, textured in a beads-of-rice pattern, is a practical choice for a watch likely to get wet, and the pin buckle is engraved with the DOXA fish, a small detail that rewards a closer look. The ETA 2824-2 inside is a movement built for longevity and ease of service rather than complication, which suits a working diver's watch well — it will be maintained, not retired.
- Reference
- 799.10.351.21
- Brand
- Doxa
- Collection
- Sub 200
- Case size
- 42mm
- Case thickness
- 13.80mm
- Lug width
- 19mm
- Case material
- Stainless steel
- Case shape
- Round
- Dial
- Orange
- Crystal
- Sapphire
- Bezel
- Unidirectional rotating
- Movement
- Automatic
- Calibre
- ETA 2824
- Functions
- Date
- Water resistance
- 200m
- Bracelet / strap
- Rubber strap
- Strap colour
- Orange
- Clasp
- Buckle
- Lume
- Super-LumiNova
- Retailer
- Mappin & Webb
Additional specifications
- Lug-to-lug
- 46mm
- Power reserve
- 38 hours
- Origin
- Swiss made
Learn more about Doxa
Doxa was founded by Georges Ducommun in Le Locle in 1889, and spent its early decades on pocket watches and, notably, dashboard clocks for the emerging car industry — supplying Bugatti among others.
Its lasting contribution came much later. In 1967 Doxa released the SUB 300, developed in consultation with professional divers, and it introduced several things now taken for granted. The dial was orange, chosen after testing which colour remained visible longest as depth filtered out light. The bezel carried a US Navy no-decompression scale rather than simple minute markers, letting a diver read safe bottom time directly. The beads-of-rice bracelet included an expansion section to fit over a wetsuit.
Jacques Cousteau's organisation distributed the watches, and US Divers sold them in America. The SUB became genuine professional equipment rather than a dive-styled dress watch, and it appears throughout Clive Cussler's novels on the wrist of Dirk Pitt.
Doxa struggled through the quartz era and was largely dormant before being revived by the Jenny family, who reissued the SUB faithfully from 2002 onward.
The modern range remains almost entirely dive watches, with the same cushion case, the same bezel scale, and dial colours named for their depth-rating heritage — Professional orange, Sharkhunter black, Searambler silver, Caribbean blue.
- 1889
- Georges Ducommun founds Doxa in Le Locle.
- 1908
- Supplies dashboard clocks to early car manufacturers.
- 1967
- The SUB 300 debuts with an orange dial and decompression bezel.
- 2002
- The SUB is reissued under new ownership.
Also in 5 collections
This watch appears in the Doxa Sub 200 range (5), Stainless Steel Watches (3,308), Automatic Watches (1,651), Sports Watches (816) and Dive Watches (578).
What the specifications mean
A mechanical watch built to be worn hard and got wet.
Strengths
- 200m water resistance, rated for actual diving
- 46mm lug-to-lug keeps the 42mm case wearable
- Sapphire crystal, which resists scratching
- Luminous hands and markers for low light
- Sits in the lower half of Doxa's range as we list it
Worth knowing
- 38-hour reserve means winding it after a day off
Doxa Sub 200 Professional alternatives
Watches from other brands at a similar price, style and size, so you can see what else your budget can buy.
| Specification | 799.10.351.21 | C0329291104101 | HBC007J1 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Price | £1,150 | £1,070 | £1,100 |
| Case size | 42mm | 41mm | 39.5mm |
| Water resistance | 200m | 200m | 200m |
| Movement | Automatic | Automatic | Automatic |
| Strap | Rubber strap | Stainless steel bracelet | Leather strap |
| Power reserve | 38 hours | 80 hours | 72 hours |
| This watch | Closely matched |
|
Your new watch
Frequently asked questions, and things you should know about this watch
Can I swim with it?
Yes. At 200m it is rated for swimming, snorkelling and recreational diving.
Will the glass scratch?
Unlikely. Sapphire is second only to diamond in hardness and shrugs off everyday marking.
Does it need a battery?
No. It is automatic — the motion of your wrist winds it, and there is no cell to replace.
How long does it run for when it's not worn?
About 38 hours fully wound — so it will usually stop if you leave it off overnight.
What size strap does it take?
19mm. Any strap of that width will fit, and on most modern watches quick-release bars make the swap a two-minute job with no tools.
Will it fit my wrist?
Lug-to-lug is 46mm, which suits wrists from roughly 16cm (6¼ inches) upward.
Lug-to-lug decides fit more than case diameter does.
Is it a men's or women's watch?
Listed as men's.
Cheapest place to buy
Mappin & Webb is the only UK retailer we track stocking this reference new, at £1,150. There is nothing to compare it against today.
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