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Doxa Sub 200T 39mm Mens Watch Orange Stainless Steel
Ref. 804.10.351.10
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Stepping up in the same colour and case shape
The original Sub 300 established Doxa's reputation among working divers in the late 1960s, partly through its adoption by the US Navy and the diving community around Jacques Cousteau. The Sub 200T carries that lineage into a 39mm cushion case — meaningfully smaller than its forebear — retaining the two details that matter most: the vivid orange dial that reads cleanly at depth, and the patented no-decompression table built into the unidirectional bezel, a functional tool that no other manufacturer has replicated in quite the same way. At 41.5mm lug to lug and just 10.7mm thick, the case sits flush against the wrist in a way the larger Sub 300 never quite manages under a cuff. The "beads of rice" bracelet suits the cushion case well, and the ratcheting wetsuit extension built into the folding clasp means the fit adjusts without tools, which matters when you are actually in the water rather than just near it. The Sellita SW200-1 inside is not the most exotic movement available, but it is properly Swiss, straightforward to service anywhere in the world, and entirely suited to a watch that is meant to be used rather than kept.
- Reference
- 804.10.351.10
- Brand
- Doxa
- Collection
- SUB 200T
- Case size
- 39mm
- Case thickness
- 10.70mm
- Lug width
- 18mm
- Case material
- Stainless steel
- Case shape
- Round
- Dial
- Orange
- Crystal
- Sapphire
- Bezel
- Unidirectional rotating
- Movement
- Automatic
- Calibre
- Sellita SW200-1
- Functions
- Date
- Water resistance
- 200m
- Bracelet / strap
- Stainless steel bracelet
- Strap colour
- Silver
- Clasp
- Folding clasp
- Lume
- Super-LumiNova
- Retailer
- Mappin & Webb
Additional specifications
- Lug-to-lug
- 41.50mm
- Power reserve
- 38 hours
Learn more about Doxa
Doxa was founded by Georges Ducommun in Le Locle in 1889, and spent its early decades on pocket watches and, notably, dashboard clocks for the emerging car industry — supplying Bugatti among others.
Its lasting contribution came much later. In 1967 Doxa released the SUB 300, developed in consultation with professional divers, and it introduced several things now taken for granted. The dial was orange, chosen after testing which colour remained visible longest as depth filtered out light. The bezel carried a US Navy no-decompression scale rather than simple minute markers, letting a diver read safe bottom time directly. The beads-of-rice bracelet included an expansion section to fit over a wetsuit.
Jacques Cousteau's organisation distributed the watches, and US Divers sold them in America. The SUB became genuine professional equipment rather than a dive-styled dress watch, and it appears throughout Clive Cussler's novels on the wrist of Dirk Pitt.
Doxa struggled through the quartz era and was largely dormant before being revived by the Jenny family, who reissued the SUB faithfully from 2002 onward.
The modern range remains almost entirely dive watches, with the same cushion case, the same bezel scale, and dial colours named for their depth-rating heritage — Professional orange, Sharkhunter black, Searambler silver, Caribbean blue.
- 1889
- Georges Ducommun founds Doxa in Le Locle.
- 1908
- Supplies dashboard clocks to early car manufacturers.
- 1967
- The SUB 300 debuts with an orange dial and decompression bezel.
- 2002
- The SUB is reissued under new ownership.
Also in 5 collections
This watch appears in Stainless Steel Watches (3,308), Back in Stock (2,703), Automatic Watches (1,651), Sports Watches (816) and Dive Watches (578).
What the specifications mean
A mechanical watch built to be worn hard and got wet.
Strengths
- 200m water resistance, rated for actual diving
- 39mm suits most wrists
- 41.5mm lug-to-lug keeps the 39mm case wearable
- Sapphire crystal, which resists scratching
- Luminous hands and markers for low light
Worth knowing
- 38-hour reserve means winding it after a day off
Doxa Sub 200T alternatives
Watches from other brands at a similar price, style and size, so you can see what else your budget can buy.
| Specification | 804.10.351.10 | ZO9218 | HBC007J1 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Price | £1,490 | £1,599 | £1,100 |
| Case size | 39mm | 39mm | 39.5mm |
| Water resistance | 200m | 200m | 200m |
| Movement | Automatic | Automatic | Automatic |
| Strap | Stainless steel bracelet | Stainless steel bracelet | Leather strap |
| Power reserve | 38 hours | 44 hours | 72 hours |
| This watch | Closely matched |
|
Your new watch
Frequently asked questions, and things you should know about this watch
Can I swim with it?
Yes. At 200m it is rated for swimming, snorkelling and recreational diving.
Will the glass scratch?
Unlikely. Sapphire is second only to diamond in hardness and shrugs off everyday marking.
Does it need a battery?
No. It is automatic — the motion of your wrist winds it, and there is no cell to replace.
How long does it run for when it's not worn?
About 38 hours fully wound — so it will usually stop if you leave it off overnight.
What size strap does it take?
18mm. Any strap of that width will fit, and on most modern watches quick-release bars make the swap a two-minute job with no tools.
Will it fit my wrist?
Lug-to-lug is 41.50mm, which suits wrists from roughly 15cm (6 inches) upward.
Lug-to-lug decides fit more than case diameter does.
Is it a men's or women's watch?
Listed as men's, though at 39mm it sits in the range that suits anyone.
Cheapest place to buy
Mappin & Webb is the only UK retailer we track stocking this reference new, at £1,490. There is nothing to compare it against today.
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