Parmigiani Fleurier TONDA PF Automatic Steel Platinum Sand Grey 36mm Unisex Watch

Michel Parmigiani spent two decades as a restorer, and it is the key to the company. He worked on the Maurice Sandoz collection — automata, singing birds, and complicated clocks of extraordinary rarity — and became one of the few people alive capable of rebuilding eighteenth and nineteenth century mechanisms whose makers left no documentation.

The Sandoz Family Foundation financed the founding of Parmigiani Fleurier in 1996 on the strength of that expertise, and continues to own it. Restoration work still runs alongside production, which is unusual and has direct consequences: the house has reverse-engineered historical complications few others have seen working.

The Sandoz backing also allowed something rarer than a brand — a supply chain. Parmigiani built or acquired Vaucher for movements, Atokalpa for escapement components including hairsprings, Elwin for precision parts, and Les Artisans Boîtiers for cases. Very few manufactures control all of that, and Vaucher supplies movements to other high-end houses.

The aesthetic signature is the teardrop lug, taken from historical pocket watch cases, and the Toric bezel with its knurled fluting derived from Greek architectural proportion.

The Tonda PF collection, launched in 2021, repositioned the house around understated integrated-bracelet watches and has been its most commercially successful line.