H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Seconds Sunny-Side Up 40mm Mens Watch

Ref. 3201-1200

The Pioneer line was Moser's argument that a serious in-house movement belongs on the wrist as readily as under glass in a collector's cabinet, and the Sunny-Side Up takes that argument and turns the colour up. The fumé dial graduates from sharp lemon at the centre to deep amber at the edge — a technique Moser has made its own — and on a skeletonised watch it means the movement sits behind a wash of colour that shifts as the light does. The HMC 201 is worth pausing on. The bi-directional pawl winding runs on ceramic ball bearings, the balance is free-sprung, and the hairspring is made in-house at Moser's own Straumann facility — the kind of detail that separates movements built to a price from movements built to a standard. Through the sapphire caseback the anthracite bridges and gold-gilded jewel sinks make it worth turning over. At 40mm the case wears close without feeling compact, and the white rubber keeps it light enough that the watch reads as a considered summer piece rather than a tool.

Reference

3201-1200

Brand

H. Moser & Cie

Case size

40mm

Case thickness

12mm

Case material

Stainless steel

Case shape

Round

Dial

Yellow

Crystal

Sapphire

Movement

Automatic

Calibre

HMC 201

Functions

Skeleton dial

Water resistance

120m

Bracelet / strap

Stainless steel bracelet

Strap colour

White

Clasp

Buckle

Lume

Super-LumiNova

Retailer

Goldsmiths